Tailormade Holidays in Madagascar

The beautiful rainforest ecosystem of Ranomafana National Park supports a bewildering diversity of endemic plant and animal-life including a wide variety of lemurs such as Milne-Edward’s Sifaka, Red-bellied Lemur, Red-fronted Brown Lemur and Ranomafana Grey Bamboo Lemur, as well as the Golden Bamboo Lemur and Greater Bamboo Lemur – the latter two are extremely rare. Ranomafana is also one of Madagascar’s birdwatching hotspots with a number of rare and elusive species in evidence such as Brown Mesite, Madagascar Wood-rail, Pollen’s Vanga, Crossley’s Vanga (Babbler), Pitta-like Ground-roller, Velvet Asity, White-throated Oxylabes and Red-fronted Coua. At the nearby site of Vohiparara, Brown and Grey Emutail, Rufous-headed Ground-roller and Yellow-bellied Sunbird-asity can also be seen. Other spectacular and bizarre wildlife can also be found in these lush forests, such as the Comet Moth, Phelsuma day geckos and the bizarre Giraffe-necked Weevil. A guided walk along one of the forest-lined roads after dark in search of the nocturnal inhabitants of Ranomafana is highly recommended. Rufous Mouse Lemur, one of the smallest of all the lemurs, is possible together with a variety of chameleons, frogs and perhaps one of the Uroplatus leaf-tailed geckos.

This national park is accessible by road from the capital city of Antananarivo (known as ‘Tana’ for short) and includes two distinct protected areas, the special reserve of Périnet and the Mantadia National Park. Périnet holds several species of lemur, but it is the Indri, Madagascar’s largest and most vocal lemur, that is the primary attraction – its eerie cries are never to be forgotten once heard. Amongst the birdlife are Red-fronted and Red-breasted Coua, both Blue and Nuthatch Vangas, Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher and the Pitta-like Ground-roller. The rainforest here is also excellent for reptiles such as the Madagascar Tree Boa, Parson’s Chameleon and Short-horned Chameleon. Night walks are extremely rewarding, with sightings of Crossley’s (Furry-eared) Dwarf Lemur, Eastern Woolly Lemur, Lowland Streaked Tenrec and a variety of reptiles and amphibians. Within the nearby pristine rainforest of Mantadia National Park it is possible to see Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemur and Diademed Sifaka, whilst the rare Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur is more elusive. Both Short-legged and Scaly Ground-roller occur here, together with a wealth of other bird species. Excursions in both reserves are conducted on foot using a choice of trails.

The Isalo massif is a huge area of Jurassic sandstone that has been carved by the wind and rain into spectacular gorges and hidden gullies. This striking landscape is perfect for walking, with trails such as the ‘Piscine Naturelle trail’ which leads to a natural pool ideal for a cooling dip. Another is the ‘Canyon des Makis’, at the entrance of which there is often a troop of Verreaux’s Sifakas. A number of interesting bird species also occur here, amongst them Forest Rock Thrush, Olive Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher and Grey-headed Lovebird. The grasslands bordering the massif are full of Madagascan Larks and Madagascan Cisticolas and, as throughout the rest of the country, there is plenty of endemic plant-life including the strange Elephant’s Foot Plant (Pachypodium roselatum) and the Isalo Aloe. Isalo is also a sacred burial site for the Bara tribe whose tombs lie in caverns high in the cliff faces.

The Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park lies between Isalo and Tuléar and is home to several lemur species including Verreaux’s Sifaka and Zombitse Sportive Lemur. It is also the only place to see Appert’s Tetraka, while other avian species of note here include Red-tailed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Coquerel’s Coua, Cuckoo-roller, both Spectacled and Long-billed Bernieria, and Lesser Vasa Parrot.

North of Tuléar is the settlement of Ifaty which lies on the coast looking out across the Mozambique Channel. The nearby spiny forest is a botanical treasure-house with 92% of its species endemic to Madagascar. The most striking of these are the strange spiny octopus trees (Didieraceae) whose trunks can reach to up to 10 metres tall. The forest also holds many examples of the Adansonia rubrostipa baobab, aloes, kalanchoes and Pachypodium lanerii. The nearby Reniala Reserve is home to two of Madagascar’s most attractive and localised birds, the stunning Long-tailed Ground-roller and the Sub-desert Mesite. A stay in Ifaty also offers the chance to experience some of Madagascar’s underwater life on snorkelling excursions.

An hour’s boat journey south of Tuléar is the small ‘Vezo’ fishing village of Anakao, on the southern side of the Onilahy Estuary. Anakao is a centre of ‘Vezo’ (the nomadic West Coast fishing tribe) culture, and lines of their brightly painted dugout canoes string out across the sandy beaches. Not only is it an excellent place to relax and swim in the calm sea, but there is also the nearby uninhabited island of Nosy Ve which is home to the only breeding colony of Red-tailed Tropicbirds in Madagascar. The beach here is a good place to look for Crab Plover and it is also possible to snorkel over the adjacent coral reef.

Kirindy Forest Reserve is one of Madagascar’s least visited wildlife sites, but one of its most intriguing. Night walks are particularly rewarding in Kirindy with several nocturnal lemur species present including the world’s smallest known primate, Madame Berthe’s Mouse Lemur and several other lemurs such as Pale Fork-marked Lemur, Red-tailed Sportive Lemur and the intriguingly named Coquerel’s Giant Dwarf Lemur. This is also the most reliable place for a sighting of Fosa, Madagascar’s largest carnivore – especially in November when individuals actively seek a mate, making this the best month for sightings. The endemic Giant Jumping Rat is another speciality of Kirindy, as is the iconic ‘Avenue of the Baobabs’ which is only a short drive away and a must if you venture to this gem of a reserve.

The dry deciduous forests and wetlands that make up the Ankarafantsika National Park are one of the best places to see Coquerel’s Sifaka, a beautiful silky-white and chestnut-coloured lemur. Night walks are excellent here due to the high density of nocturnal lemurs, among them the Golden-brown Mouse Lemur which is found nowhere else. A wide variety of birds are in evidence such as the rare Van Dam’s Vanga, Schlegel’s Asity and White-breasted Mesite and a nearby lake has a population of Nile Crocodile and often a nesting pair of the critically endangered Madagascan Fish Eagle. The reserve is also one of the best places in Madagascar for reptiles, with Rhinoceros Chameleon, Stump-tailed Chameleon, Madagascar Tree Boa and Giant Hog-nosed Snake all present. Near the Ampijoroa Forest Station (located within the park) is the famous Jersey Trust’s Ploughshare Tortoise conservation project.

Montagne d’Ambre (Amber Mountain) is an isolated and remote volcano massif in the far north of the country that is clothed in 18,200 hectares of montane tropical forest. The park’s name derives from the amber-coloured resin that oozes from some of the trees, many of which grow to 40 metres in height and are festooned with lianas, bird’s-nest ferns, orchids and other epiphytes. These lush, sun-dappled forests hold several beautiful waterfalls and are home to a wonderful array of mammals, birds and other wildlife. Seven species of lemur live here, with the most notable being the localised Crowned Lemur, Sanford’s Brown Lemur and the Amber Mountain Fork-marked Lemur, a species found nowhere else in the world. The birdlife is equally diverse and includes Madagascan Ibis, the endemic Amber Mountain Rock Thrush, Cuckoo-roller, Pitta-like Ground-roller, Souimanga Sunbird and Hook-billed Vanga. Reptiles are also commonly sighted, with Stump-tailed Chameleon and Blue-nosed Chameleon often visible. The nearby town of Joffreville is the best place to stay.

The Ankarana massif, which rises abruptly from the surrounding grassy plains, has been eroded over the aeons into a dramatic landscape of limestone pinnacles known as ‘tsingy’ and numerous caves and other karst landforms, all edged by dry deciduous forest. The incredible tsingy alone makes this a worthwhile stop, but there is plenty of wildlife to look out for including Crowned Lemur, Sandford’s Brown Lemur, Sahafary Sportive Lemur and Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur. Another intriguing mammal here is the inquisitive Malagasy Ring-tailed Mongoose. The birdlife is rich and varied and includes species such as White-breasted Mesite, Banded Kestrel, Madagascan Ibis, Crested Coua, Hook-billed Vanga, Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher and Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher. Ankarana is hot and the paths are steep in places. It is, however, a wonderful and rewarding reserve.

In the remote north-east of Madagascar, in excess of 400,000 hectares of virgin rainforest clothe the Masoala Peninsula. This is the most significant area of tropical rainforest remaining in the country and one of the most biodiverse. Steep-sided mountains, with fast-flowing mountain streams tumbling down their sides, rise out of the clear blue waters of the Bay of Antongil, and forests of towering buttress-rooted trees, draped with climbers and epiphytes, create a home for a huge diversity of animal and plant-life. Ten species of lemur are known to occur here including Red Ruffed, White-fronted Brown, Eastern Woolly and Brown Mouse Lemur. These live alongside Fosa, Fanaloka (Malagasy Striped Civet) and Aye-aye which, although elusive, is occasionally seen. The birdlife is impressive and includes such species as Brown Mesite, Madagascar Wood-rail, Madagascan Cuckoo Hawk, Short-legged Ground-roller, Red-breasted Coua, White-throated Oxylabes, Forest Fody and the striking Helmet Vanga, the largest of this endemic family and quite easy to find here. Also present but more difficult to see are Madagascar Serpent-eagle, Madagascar Red Owl and Bernier’s Vanga. For the botanist, Masoala contains an exceptional palm flora, including some of the rarest and most unusual palms on the island such as the highly endangered Forest Coconut. Noteworthy reptiles and amphibians include the striking Tomato Frog and Green-backed Mantella, Panther Chameleon and two species of the intricately camouflaged Uroplatus leaf-tailed geckos.

On the east coast of the island, accessible only by boat via the Pangalenes canals, Le Palmarium sits on the banks of Lake Ampitabe. Visitors are greeted by a strange horde of introduced, approachable lemurs, which live in the reserve’s lush gardens filled with orchids, palms and carnivorous plants. The main reason to include a stop at this private reserve, however, is to visit an area of coastal forest nearby, where wild, habituated Aye-ayes live. Each evening, residents can take a boat over to the forest to visit the coconut feeding station, where you are all but guaranteed an encounter with these most incredible, frequently maligned, creatures.

The Anjajavy Peninsula lies on Madagascar’s north-west coast and harbours the private Anjajavy Reserve. This reserve is ‘Madagascar in microcosm’ and is a good place either to take a break during the middle of your journey or in which to relax at the end of your holiday. It holds a wealth of wildlife, including such lemur species as Common Brown Lemur and Coquerel’s Sifaka. A string of secluded beaches, from which to enjoy a little snorkelling, line the coast and can easily be explored on foot. Boat trips can also be booked locally to enable you to explore the islands in nearby Moramba Bay, on which the intriguing burial customs of the local Sakalava people are in evidence.

Nosy Komba is one of Madagascar’s most beautiful islands. Located between Nosy Be island and the mainland, this island is blessed with several excellent white sandy beaches and plenty of wildlife, including a population of Black Lemurs. Activities on offer include snorkelling and fishing trips, as well as boat excursions to neighbouring islands.

The narrow island of Île Sainte Marie is a sleepy place with rustic fishing villages, and charming inhabitants. There are plenty of idyllic and often deserted palm-fringed white sandy beaches to choose from and one of the best ways to get around is by bicycle. Between July and September hundreds of Humpback Whales congregate off the shores of Île Sainte Marie making this a particularly rewarding time to visit.

Nosy Be, a volcanic island off the northwest coast of Madagascar, is perhaps the country’s most well-known destination. Picturesque white sand beaches, turquoise-blue water and a pleasant climate are the major draw for many visitors, but the area also boasts immense biodiversity, much of which is concentrated in the Lokobe Nature Special Reserve on the south coast of the island. Nosy Be is home to wealth of endemic species. These include Stumpffia pygmaea, one of the world’s smallest frogs, and the endangered Dwarf Chameleon (Brookesia minima), which was regarded as the smallest species of chameleon in the world, until the discovery of the Nano Chameleon (Brookesia nana) on the nearby mainland in 2021! Lokobe Nature Special Reserve in particular is well-known for its resident Black Lemurs and the stunning Nosy Be Panther Chameleon. The waters off the coast of the island are equally rich in life, and recent studies have suggested that they may provide important habitat for rare cetaceans, such as Omura’s Whale.

The Tsingy de Bemahara Strict Nature Reserve occupies a strip of tropical forest in western Madagascar. This spectacular limestone landscape, made up of spikes and plateaus, or ‘Tsingys’ (the direct Malagasy translation meaning ‘where one cannot walk barefoot’), was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 1990. This was largely due to the dazzling biodiversity and unusually high levels of endemism discovered in the area. Groundwater erosion over the course of millennia has given rise to the regions unique geomorphology and resulted in the creation of hundreds of small pockets of isolated forest, and an array of accompanying niches. This has ultimately led to a proliferation of localised and highly specialised creatures. Today, the region is home to a number of rare and locally endemic species, which is particularly represented in the flora, reptiles and amphibians. 11 species of lemur are resident here, including Decken’s Sifaka and Red-Fronted Brown Lemurs, which are readily seen, and whilst the number of bird species here is not as immediately impressive as in other locations across Madagascar, they too reflect an endemic pattern.