Anyone who has travelled through India by train or road will be amazed to learn that there is actually a form of surface transport through the country that offers total serenity and comfort: for it is possible to cruise for some 2,820 kilometres along the rivers of India, passing great cities, wildlife sanctuaries and historical monuments, and journey into the very heart of rural India by boat. Indeed once, such rivers as the Ganges, Hugli and Brahmaputra were all vital arteries for the East India Company, as for other empires before them, and British-run passenger boats plied these rivers from the early 18th century until competition from the railways became just too great by the end of the 19th century. Passenger boats on the Brahmaputra, however, continued to operate until the early 1950s when the tensions that emerged between India and Pakistan after Partition in 1947 finally spelt the end for river traffic. Until that time, daily passenger boats from Kolkata plied the Brahmaputra through Assam, aboard them a complement of tea planters, forest officers, soldiers and district magistrates; indeed, during the Second World War, they also played a vital role in bringing in troops and evacuating casualties during the great battles of Imphal and Kohima in 1944. Today, however, in association with a pioneering Indo-British cruise company, Naturetrek offers you the opportunity to re-live the experience of those days of the Raj, aboard a luxury 24-berth vessel exclusively chartered by us to provide a river cruise with a dedicated focus on the wildlife and national parks of Assam.

This 10-night cruise will include most of the highlights of Assam, with a particular focus on the wildlife, wilderness and tribal villages and cultures that represent the key points of interest along the mighty Brahmaputra, for often the riverbed is 20 to 30 kilometres across, an empty world of grass-covered and forested islands, sand spits and channels, favoured only by rural fishermen and a marvellous birdlife. We will also look out for mammals, especially when passing through Assam’s national parks, although throughout our cruise we may expect to see the endangered and enigmatic Gangetic River Dolphin, a real highlight of this journey.

We begin our cruise, after a night in the fascinating old colonial city of Kolkata and a domestic flight, near Jorhat in Assam. Our first point of call will be the Gibbon Sanctuary at Mariani, where we will walk in the forest in search of Hoolock Gibbons, India’s only species of ape, and a wealth of birdlife. Next stop will be Majuli Island, reputedly the world’s largest river island and short-listed for future UNESCO World Heritage status on account of its rich culture. Here we will visit some of the island’s unique Hindu monasteries (famous for their dance drama performances), experience a typical Mising tribal lunch in a stilted bamboo hut, and enjoy the birds of Sakuli Bheel (lake). On other occasions we will spend time gently cruising down the Brahmaputra, relaxing and birdwatching from the sundeck, perhaps with a visit to a tribal village.

On our fourth day Kaziranga National Park will appear on the left bank and we now have a chance of seeing wild Asian Elephants and wild Water Buffalo from the boat, perhaps even a Tiger! During the next three days we have the pleasure of India’s finest national park alongside us, and in it will enjoy an elephant ride and jeep safaris. Kaziranga is a 430 square kilometre park, consisting of broad tracts of tall elephant grass interspersed with evergreen forests, shallow lakes and reedbeds. It is probably the best place on Earth to observe the very rare Great Indian One-horned Rhinoceros and it is possible to encounter as many as 40 of these prehistoric-looking beasts during a day in the field. Asian Elephants and wild Water Buffalo are also plentiful, as are Sambar, Hog and Swamp Deer, and Wild Boar, the prey of the Leopards and Tigers which roam the park, although amid so much cover they are always hard to see. We may even chance upon some of the more elusive residents such as Gaur, Leopard Cat and Sloth Bear, whilst the rare Capped Langur, Assam Macaque and Hoolock Gibbon form a trio of primates that inhabit the woodlands. Despite the profusion of mammals, the birdlife is not eclipsed and a tremendously diverse bird list features many rare or local species such as Bengal Florican and Adjutant Stork.

Leaving Kaziranga, we will next explore Nameri National Park (which lies in the Himalayan foothills an hour’s drive north of Tezpur) both on foot and by means of a raft journey through the park. We will also visit Orang National Park, which lies alongside the Brahmaputra, exploring it by means of a smaller boat which we will take up a tributary into the heart of the park where we will search for birds and mammals by jeep.

Towards the end of our river cruise we will explore a range of jungle-covered hills and visit the idyllic and isolated village of Ganesh Pahar where we will take a birdwatching walk through rice paddies and unspoilt forest. These pretty hills, or the Golden Langurs of Peacock Island, are likely to be amongst our final memories of the stillness and beauty of the mighty Brahmaputra, before we must disembark at Guwahati and commence our journey homeward. For tour members wishing to extend their holiday, we recommend a post-tour visit to the Sunderbans, the world’s largest delta and mangrove swamp, renowned for its waterbirds and man-eating Tigers!