Watching Giant River Otters in the Pantanal

Diane Daniels travelled on our 'Brazil - Just Jaguars' tour and submitted this entry to our writing competition.

 

Giant River Otters

Skimmers scissoring the surface of the water acted as our escort as we made our way to the Flotel, which was to be our accommodation for the next four days at the mouth of the Tres Irmaos River. Their welcome cries and precision displays turned out to be just a taster for the main event to come.

Snatching forty winks after our long journey I was awoken by the sounds of whistles, chattering, squeals and burbling noises, coming from outside. I slowly began to recognise the sounds to be that of the Giant River Otter. Hastily I threw on a shirt, crammed my feet into laced boots only half on, shuffling and stumbling in my excitement, grabbing my camera as I staggered out of the door. The heat was incredible, like walking into a sauna with an overcoat on, the mosquitoes were a literal pain, but to see wildlife in their own environment, in all their glory, surely one has to endure a little.

There they were, right outside the rear of the Flotel. I moved nearer - close enough to touch if I’d dared. A family of six, all big brown eyes, long abundant whiskers and tails. Amidst their contact calls, of grunts, groans and gurgles they dived and writhed, their sleek forms dipping in and out of the water, as they endeavoured to catch their slippery prey. An adult succeeded, stopping on a log to eat his fish, so intimate I could hear his munching and crunching, the other family members complained noisily as they demanded their share, but to no avail, the meal was all his. The youngsters’ only alternative was to play, pulling each other under the water, vocalising, diving, and giving the odd nip, fun and frolics had by all. The human audience was treated to a display of aquatic brilliance. I was torn between watching mesmerised, and remembering to capture every second on my camera, each click surely a photo worthy of framing. Some say they are an ugly relative of our European Otters, but to me they had beauty, grace, and character and were the stars of the Pantanal. My Naturetrek companions all agreed there could not have been a better introduction to our river location.

The otters stayed for no longer than 5 minutes, so near, so wild, then suddenly they decided to leave us, swimming off up the river, spy hopping as they went, as if to say farewell. I was left feeling a warm glow, stunned by the spectacle, almost in disbelief and wondering if I had been dreaming after all. My husband came to join me from his slumber. ‘Did I miss anything?’ he asked. My smile said it all.

Read more about our 'Brazil - Just Jaguars' holiday.