Where Worlds Collide
Outside it is freezing cold, and snowing, and dark. It is challenging in a lovely and enjoyable way. And it is only two forty-five in the afternoon! Thirty-six of us are inside the Arctic Circle in early January, sailing off the northern coast of Norway; the zodiacs have just departed filled with the more intrepid travellers, off for a remote landing and a stroll into the unknown. Inside it is warm and cosy, tea and coffee are flowing and the less energetic are settling in for an hour or two of peace.
"I see England have just won the test match."
"Really, they still needed five wickets last I heard."
"Stokes just took the last three."
"Good player."
A cricket test match in South Africa seems a world away, and it is. I bet it is warmer there.
A perverse collision of worlds. This is the Arctic after all.
We have enjoyed an amazing few days. Although dark by mid-afternoon the clarity of the air early in the day, the beautiful sunshine, and the whiteness of the snow are remarkable. We have hiked through several feet of snow laughing like youngsters seeing snow for the first time, then helping up the unfortunates who fall over, but they are still laughing too! It snowed from the very first day, settling on the deck of our boat, a converted herring schooner, which is magnificent and majestic. The mornings include standing on compacted snow and ice on the deck for five hours, yes it tests your boots and toes, but how exhilarating does it get to witness countless whales – Orcas and Humpbacks – and wild birds including White-tailed Eagles, it is truly wonderful. And add to the experience six Moose including mother and young walking by on shore oblivious to our presence.
A constant flow of refreshments and the smell of lunch cooking are welcome additions. But then if you are tempted in too often you miss the unmissable, including seeing a huge fishing vessel keeling over to around forty degrees as it struggles to land its catch in heavy nets.
"Anyone fancy a game of Rummikub?"
"I am sorry, never heard of it! What is that then?"
"No worries, I take a board game on each trip, I will gladly teach you, come on!!"
"Wonderful, I will just get the tea and biscuits."
A friendship forged, a skill learned, fun and more laughter. So glad I missed the zodiac trip!! Another perverse collision of worlds. This is the Arctic after all.
The wonder does not stop at sunset, we have after all come in the hope of seeing the Northern Lights also, and yes, we do! There is no substitute for being in the cold and dark, patiently waiting, and then shouting in glee to anyone and everyone as the Lights appear and take over the sky. Greens, mauves, yellows, reds, all intertwined, moving, dancing, prancing, parading. We are blessed with a great display, something to which no TV or film can do justice: be there, see it, live it, breathe it. We even have a rota to help get through the night, a one hour watch in turn while others sleep, to raise our new friends if the Lights appear. We volunteer for the 3am slot which does not seem popular with others! I shall never forget the shout of "Oh my God!!" at 3.30am as the lights appeared.... and disappeared ten seconds later. Just those ten seconds were worth many a sleepless night!!
The friendly nature of the galley fills the heart with warmth, the food is excellent, the company engaging, the conversation varied. With most mobile phones inoperable the other world is rarely to be pondered. A blessing?
"I see there is some virus just started in China, bit like 'flu they say but a bit worse."
"Haven't heard anything about that. Probably all be over before we are back."
Another perverse collision of worlds. This is the Arctic after all!!
This has been a remarkable experience. The cold I expected. The camaraderie I did not. The trip leader was more than excellent. The views were simply astounding. Time flew by, remarkable when it is dark at 2.30pm. The talks were enthralling and entertaining. And my advice? Take good boots! Wear two pairs of gloves! But most of all let your eyes and brain do the photographing, a camera captures moments in time, this trip captures memories in the brain for a lifetime.
The last morning, we were ready to disembark for home at 7am, but under a curfew as something was happening on the deck, but very few knew what.
What a great ending, a couple appeared from the deck, engagement rings shining and smiles beaming.
We all provide spontaneous applause, a speech follows, and much hand shaking and hugging.
A last perverse collision of worlds. This has been the Arctic after all. Simply wonderful!!
Norway - Orcas, Humpbacks & Northern Lights - A Winter Arctic Cruise
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