Wildlife Holidays in North Africa

The closest African country to mainland Europe is Morocco, which sits less than nine miles from Spain across the Strait of Gibraltar. This is a spectacularly varied country, with habitats ranging from magnificent coastal wetlands through barren deserts to the towering peaks of the High Atlas Mountains. This diversity of landscapes is equalled by that of its wildlife, and especially its birds. At Merzouga, where the first mighty sand dunes of the Sahara rise above the stony desert, specialised and elusive species can be found, including Desert Sparrow, Houbara Bustard and Cream-coloured Courser. Interspersed amongst the harsh drylands is a patchwork of sheltered oases and river valleys, which may contain Black-winged Kite, Spotless Starling and the highly localised Fulvous Babbler.

Looming over it all are the snow-capped heights of the Atlas Mountains, home to great-altitude avian gems such as Moussier’s Redstart, African Crimson-winged Finch, Black Wheatear and Alpine Chough. Plunging down towards the Atlantic coast brings yet more dramatic contrast, with the marshes of Oued Massa and Tamri supporting vast numbers of ducks, herons, waders, gulls, terns and raptors, alongside less common species such as Greater Flamingo, Tawny Eagle and Black-headed Bush Shrike. The Northern Bald Ibis, one of North Africa’s most sought-after birds, is regularly sighted here, and Morocco’s Atlantic wetlands were the last-known haunts of the (now likely extinct) Slender-billed Curlew.

Morocco may be most famous as a birding destination, but there is so much more to the country. In particular, it also offers the chance to see an astonishing variety of reptiles, from Mediterranean Chameleon and Egyptian Cobra to Northern Elegant Gecko and the stunning North African Cat Snake. The High Atlas Mountains can also be remarkably productive for invertebrates, with butterflies endemic to the massif including Atlas Blue and Giant Grayling, alongside spectacular dragonflies such as Atlas Goldenring and Barbary Featherleg. Mammals might be relatively sparse, but Morocco’s deserts and rocky slopes still support Mouflon, Cuvier’s Gazelle, African Golden Wolf and North African Elephant Shrew, amongst others.

The adjacent territory of Western Sahara, by contrast, is a phenomenal mammal-watching destination. It may have a complicated history, but there is no doubt about its potential for wildlife, especially for those visitors who want to search for some of the desert’s most secretive inhabitants. In particular, night-time excursions regularly produce sightings of mammals that are practically impossible to see elsewhere, including Fennec and Ruppell’s Foxes, Sand Cat, Desert Hedgehog and Saharan Striped Polecat. In addition, several more widespread but equally exciting African species, such as African Wildcat, Honey Badger and African Golden Wolf, can be found here alongside a wide variety of smaller mammals such as jerboas. Although encountering such creatures necessitates a nocturnal focus, daylight can also reveal many of the desert’s specialist birds, including Crowned Sandgrouse, Cricket Warbler and Cream-coloured Courser, or even roosting Pharaoh Eagle-Owl and the near-mythical Golden Nightjar. Western Sahara’s coastline, too, can be surprisingly productive for species rarely seen further north, such as West African Crested Tern and the critically endangered Atlantic Humpback Dolphin. It is not the easiest of destinations – desert camping is necessary to access this wilderness – but this only adds to the sense of exploration. The opportunity to experience the region’s unique natural history, and witness its pristine, star-filled night skies, makes any visit to Western Sahara richly rewarding.

To the east of Western Sahara and Morocco is Africa’s largest country, Algeria. For years, this has been a challenging place to visit, but happily there are now some fantastic opportunities to experience its wildlife and culture, including the endemic Algerian Nuthatch and some remarkable Roman ruins. In the north, on the stunning Mediterranean coast, the town of Jijel is the perfect base for exploring the nearby Djimla and Taza National Parks, which together protect some of the largest remaining tracts of Algerian Oak woodland. These lush, high-altitude forests are home to Barbary Macaques and an impressive diversity of birdlife, including distinct local forms of Great Spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit and Tawny Owl. Sought-after endemics including Atlas Flycatcher also breed here, alongside the most iconic resident of all, the Algerian Nuthatch. Only discovered in 1975, this smaller relative of the familiar Eurasian Nuthatch survives in just a few forest patches. Not far from Jijel is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Djemila, one of the world’s most beautiful Roman ruins. Founded in the 1st century AD, this fascinating relic of a lost civilisation contains breathtaking murals, basilicas, triumphal arches and its own forum. Known to the Romans as Cuicul, a tour of the site provides a superb complement to Algeria’s natural history.

As Algeria has become more open to tourism in recent years, it is also possible to venture away from the coast, deep into the country’s arid heart. The oasis city of Tamanrasset is the ideal base for exploring the otherworldly desert landscapes, where strange red monoliths brood above the harsh sands. At first glance it seems inhospitable, but with patience many specialised birds can be seen, including Desert Wheatear, Desert Sparrow, Desert Lark, Trumpeter Finch and Crowned Sandgrouse. Species that gain a toehold into the Western Palaearctic, such as Red-billed Firefinch and African Silverbill, are also found here, especially in the unlikely wetlands south of Tamanrasset.

The northernmost, and smallest, country in the region is Tunisia. However, what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in the diversity of its wildlife, its landscapes and its fascinating classical history. In the north, vineyard-dominated valleys feel more Italian than African, while the east contains bird-rich wetlands including the famous Lake Ichkeul. Inland, furthermore, lies a scenic savannah landscape, a reminder of what much of North Africa once looked like. Just a few hours’ flight from the UK, with a superb network of protected areas and national parks, Tunisia is a compelling destination.

Unlike in much of the rest of North Africa, where large mammals are now vanishingly rare, Tunisia has made a concerted effort to reintroduce formerly extirpated species. The Lions, Leopards and Cheetahs that once roamed here are sadly long gone, but the situation for rare herbivores has improved dramatically. One of the best places to see this is Oued Dekouk Nature Reserve, which now supports populations of highly threatened ungulates such as Scimitar-horned Oryx, Dorcas Gazelle and Barbary Sheep, alongside Ruppell’s Fox and African Golden Wolf. The semi-desert habitat here also offers a variety of birds, including Greater Hoopoe Lark, Desert Warbler and Brown-necked Raven. Another even more impressive site is Bou-Hedma National Park, which additionally protects the critically endangered Addax, Dama Gazelle and reintroduced Common Ostrich.

Tunisia is an excellent winter destination due to its wonderful, sunny weather and close proximity to gloomy Europe. However, birding is perhaps at its best during spring migration, when wetland species and raptors are particularly abundant. The country’s coastal and inland lakes and marshes support such familiar species as Wood and Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stint and Collared Pratincole, along with huge flocks of Greater Flamingo, and smaller numbers of Marbled, Ferruginous and White-headed Ducks. Furthermore, the Strait of Sicily represents one of the narrowest Mediterranean crossing points for birds of prey travelling between Europe and Africa; in April, thousands of birds including Marsh Harrier, Long-legged Buzzard, Black Kite, Hobby and Short-toed Eagle can be seen travelling north, alongside Black and White Storks and huge numbers of swifts and hirundines. This can also be a fantastic time of year to venture offshore in search of seabirds, such as Yelkouan and Scopoli’s Shearwaters, and Audouin’s Gull. It is of course impossible to ignore the history of this ancient land; the highlight is perhaps the ruins of Carthage, one of the greatest cities in all antiquity.

Libya, sadly, remains off limits to tourists, so the last great North African destination to mention is Egypt. Although far better known for its archaeological sites than for its wildlife, the country’s position at the meeting of Africa and Eurasia confers a fascinating natural history, especially during spring bird migration. Many species are at the very edge of their ranges here, including Nile Valley Sunbird, African Pied Wagtail, African Green Bee-eater, Senegal Thick-knee, Yellow-billed Stork, Three-banded Plover and Greater Painted Snipe. More widespread desert species, such as Trumpeter Finch, Cream-coloured Courser and Egyptian Nightjar, can even be found in and around many of Egypt’s most spectacular ancient sites, such as the Great Pyramids at Giza, the Sphinx, Luxor and the Valley of the Kings. There are few places on Earth with such an astonishing history, and a visit to Egypt should not neglect these awe-inspiring reminders of the age of Pharaohs. Egypt, like so much of North Africa, provides travellers with a wonderful combination of culture and natural history, which promises to make any expedition to the region utterly unforgettable.