Jaguar

Brazil’s Pantanal — a vast wetland teeming with wildlife in the south-west of the country which, over the last decade, has gained a reputation as the best place to see Jaguars on the continent. I began with a flight to Cuiabá via São Paulo, and from there followed the 147-kilometre-long road, known simply as ‘the Transpantaneira’, to Pouso Alegre in the northern Pantanal. The Transpantaneira is where your ‘Pantanal experience’ begins — it crosses no less than 122 bridges before running out as it meets the Cuiabá River, and from there you must either take a boat to continue or turn around! Roadside wetlands were teeming with egrets, Wood Storks and Limpkins, while Capped, Striated and Cocoi Herons were everywhere, and towering above them all stood stately Jabiru Storks. Parties of chachalacas and curassows ran across the dusty road ahead, Yacaré Caiman gathered in incredible numbers in hyacyinth-dotted pools and Black-collared Hawks surveyed the scene from roadside posts. My undoubted highlight, however, came when an unusual shape was spotted in a patch of rough grassland. A Giant Anteater! We had wonderful views of this truly amazing creature as it trundled around with its nose to the ground, pausing to lap up thousands of termites with each flick of its long sticky tongue! Welcome to the Pantanal!

Whilst our tours to the Pantanal all include a stay in the heart of the Jaguar Zone at the Flotel, we also spend time at two land-based lodges, SouthWild Pantanal and Pouso Alegre; short stays at each of these provided countless other highlights during my short visit to the region. A single boat journey along the Pixaim River yielded all five of South America’s kingfishers — Ringed, Amazon, Green, Green-and-rufous and Pygmy — all posing beautifully for photos. The normally elusive Agami Heron was out in full view with Giant Otters calling nearby, whilst on the open grassland a family of Greater Rhea fed, and a group of characterful South American Coatis rooted around for a meal. My guide was then delighted to point out a roosting Giant Potoo, its tiny young also adopting its parents’ camouflaged pose. At a fruiting tree I was rewarded with close views of Toco Toucans and a stunning Orange-backed Troupial, whilst further on raucous screeching from a clump of palms alerted us to a pair of spectacular Hyacinth Macaws. My adventure didn’t stop at sunset: indeed as darkness fell the excitement only increased! Spotlighting after dark revealed Crab-eating Fox and Crab-eating Racoon, while a visit to a new Ocelot hide allowed me to study another of South America’s beautiful cats at close quarters! I also visited the southern Amazon and the Iguazú Falls extension, which provides a wonderful end to a truly memorable trip.