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A client travelled on our 'Ethiopia's Endemic Mammals' holiday and submitted this entry to our writing competition.
Ethiopian Wolf by Dani Free
Watching Ethiopian Wolves in the Bale Mountains
Day 5 – 28 March, Sanetti Plateau, Bale Mountains and Guasay Grasslands
Breakfast at 6; warm clothing for an early start up into the mountains, looking for Ethiopian Wolf, Giant Mole Rate and, time permitting, Bale Monkey. Leaving Goba, we quickly ran out of road, heading upward on a dirt track, through a close-set plantation that permitted little light to the ground. This gave way to a more natural open woodland and then, above the tree-line, to giant Euphorbia (with Malachite Sunbird) and various heathers. As we climbed, the lower the heathers, and our vehicle struggled in the thinning air.
As the morning air warmed up, Grass Rats became busier and Giant Mole Rats dared to venture out of their burrows, before reversing comically to safety in the frost-covered ground. We discussed the day ahead; our guide, Merid, commented that there was little chance of seeing Spot-breasted Plover as it was too dry, but we took hope from small pools of water that suggested rain (up at 13,000ft).
Stopping to look for wolves, we scanned small herds of cattle, which the wolves use as cover for hunting. Two were seen briefly, albeit distantly and not by all. Continuing up, we saw Steppe Eagle harassed by the first of many Augur Buzzards. The highlands are specialised, appearing barren to a superficial glance but Moorland Chats and Black-headed Siskins were frequent and multi-coloured lichens covered the rocks.
A shout of ‘Fox! Fox! Fox!’ brought the bus to a sharp halt and the whole party enjoyed a great view of an Ethiopian Wolf, watching for several minutes. Buoyed with success, we decided to try for the Bale Monkey, which would take us over the escarpment and down into the valley below. Descending through a village, we were greeted, as almost everywhere, by children, waving and shouting. The plan was to stay for about 5 minutes, scanning a likely spot for the monkey, although success seemed unlikely. On the point of leaving, two of the party took ‘comfort breaks’ in the forest. They reappeared very quickly with reports of sightings among the bamboo and we returned to our search, but it was fruitless. Another 5 minutes became 20, then 30, with only a Tawny-flanked Prinia to note. Some were back at the bus when a shout caused a stampede down the hill and those that arrived quickly enough saw a male Bale Monkey (with bright blue testicles). The late arrivals were not disappointed for long as a movement higher up revealed a female with an infant. Sadly, time demanded that we leave and we set off back up through the village, seeing Mountain Buzzard and Ayres’ Hawk-eagle on the way.
Back on the plateau, Merid commented that there had been rain. We mused that this would bring plovers back the next day, instantly to be proved wrong by a day. Four Spot-breasted Plovers chose that moment to land on the road in front of us. Wattled Crane was also hoped for but, sadly, the rain worked its magic just once. We returned to the hotel for lunch (the ingredients of ‘special omelette’ remain a mystery) and time to ourselves. The three keen birders in the party wandered the hotel grounds, photographing Wattled Ibis and Greater Blue-Eared Starlings.
We re-grouped for 4pm to head back to the grasslands, with a plan to look for Serval, spotlighting after dark. At 4.30pm a brief rainfall released a rich earthy perfume to the air. Stopping by roadside pools we saw Rouget’s Rail, Yellow-billed Duck, Yellow Bishop and a stunning Abyssinian Longclaw. On open land from the road to woodland we could see Warthog, Nyala and Bushbuck.
Whilst Merid scanned for Serval in the late afternoon light most of the party, dedicated mammal enthusiasts all, decided to take a walk, apparently not rating our chances, leaving the three birders behind on this rather special mammal watch. As Merid scanned, we saw Pallid Harrier and many African Stonechats, until a shout of ‘I have Serval!’ brought us running to the scope. We took turns to find the animal through the scope and then binoculars. Once clued in, it could be found quite readily with the naked eye, despite the distance. Merid set off to fetch the rest of the group. As he vanished, a second Serval appeared and both cats could be seen through the scope. We followed their hunt, wondering if they would remain for the whole party to see. Gradually the others returned at a run/brisk walk/breathless stumble, hurrying despite the altitude and Merid’s warnings, and all in plenty of time to see the cats before night fell rapidly and we returned to our hotel, satisfied with our day.
Read more about our 'Ethiopia's Endemic Mammals' holiday.