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Caroline Wheeler travelled on our 'Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands' holiday and submitted this entry to our writing competition.
Marine Iguana by Jenny Willsher
Two go to Galapagos
The four of us huddled together for warmth like marine iguanas. Margaret had only come up to collect her washing but she stayed with us on the bridge for an hour, scanning the sea for whales and dolphins. Stephy would shout ‘Elliot’s Petrel!’, ‘Galapagos Shearwater!’ or ‘Nazca Booby!’. Once, Jessica thought she saw the blow hole of a whale. Giant Manta Rays jumped right out of the water, flashing silver as they caught the light. We grew expert at spotting the dome of a turtle or a ray darkening the water. We even looked for sharks by torchlight around the bow.
We soon adjusted to the rhythms and routines of the Cachelote. On longer sea passages, the ship usually got under way at midnight. I would wake to the sound of the anchor dropping and lift my porthole cover to see the Sally Lightfoot Crabs emerge from their crevices and scuttle down to the sea. The bell rang for breakfast at 7am. By eight, everyone had retrieved their footwear from the crate, fastened their life jackets and were lined up ready to go ashore.
I had never heard the word ‘panga’ before but the two inflatable craft formed an integral part of our day. Darwin, our guide taught us the ‘Galapagos handshake’ for climbing aboard and we grew skilful at wet and dry landings.
We explored the mangrove lagoon at Elizabeth Bay by panga. Turtle beaks popped up in all directions. We watched a pelican preening its feathers and sailed beneath a Magnificent Frigatebird. We followed a convoy of small eagle rays like stealth bombers under the water. Sea lions rested on the mature branches of mangroves as the surrounding rock was too jagged. On our way back to the Chachelote, three sea lions played in our bow wave.
At Vicente Roca Point, we were taken by panga to see fur seals at the foot of a collapsed caldera. The sea was choppy and Darwin had to turn the bow into the waves to keep us from being broadsided. We explored the volcanic chimneys, dramatic rock formations and a sea cave where Common Noddies were nesting. Three penguins swam past.
We usually had two hikes a day. At Punta Moreno, the lava was fragile and rough in places. We had to follow the way markers or we might disappear through the lava crust. Despite this inhospitable landscape, life was trying to establish a foothold wherever it could. We found Lava Cactus, and Rosemary and Darwin’s Camomile. In brackish pools we saw flamingoes, White-cheeked Pintails and Yellow-tailed Mullet.
At Santiago we walked along tidal pools and grottos. I was filled with anticipation. Young sea lions swam in the pools and marine iguanas sprawled over the rocks. They were so well camouflaged you suddenly found them under your feet. Waders were feeding in the rock pools: Wandering Tattler, turnstones and oystercatchers. A Galapagos Hawk was on the rocks and a Lava Heron was watching intently as an octopus reached out a tentacle and swam under an arch. The light mizzle lifted and the sand glistened in the sun, turning the water aquamarine. I wanted to jump in. It was hard to know where to look as birds and marine life were everywhere.
We went snorkelling most days. Sometimes we swam along the base of a cliff. Darwin would dive into check the currents and direct us where to swim. A panga would be standing by. Turtles would hang lazily in the water and penguins flash past. Once, Jessica spotted a Pacific Seahorse anchored by its tail on some seaweed not far below the surface. We swam over ledges where the sea fell away below. Darwin swam in a very relaxed manner with his hands crossed in front. He would dive down and reappear a few minutes later, like a Flightless Cormorant, to point out an eel or a Diamond Ray.
I saw my first White-tipped Reef Shark at Santiago. We were snorkelling from the beach around a rocky inlet. The shark was about 4 feet long. It swam past unconcerned. Sea lion pups came to investigate and frisked around us. I was a bit alarmed when an adult loomed into view. Jessica spotted a marine iguana in the water, so we followed it around a reef until the current grew too strong.
In Tagus Cove, I went kayaking, exploring the rocky inlets, sidling up to Flightless Cormorants at the base of the cliffs. Turtles drifted to shore like German war helmets but flicked their legs and dived on my approach.
Stephy said my sister and I were like the Famous Five, so full of ‘adventure and enthusiasm’. But that’s how it was in the Galapagos. You were anxious not to miss a minute.
Read more about our 'Ecuador & the Galapagos Islands' holiday.