Loading search...
Sue Williams travelled on our 'Brazil - Just Jaguars' holiday and submitted this entry to our writing competition.
Giant River Otter, Pantanal by Dani Free
The name of the tour was ‘Just Jaguars!’ ... so did it ‘do what it said on the tin’? Well, yes, it did and then some. In a 4-day stay at the Flotel (a ‘Floating Hotel’ in the heart of the Pantanal’s ‘Jaguar Zone’), I saw nine different Jaguars, some more than once. My first sightings of this majestic creature really were overwhelming and when I got back to my room I broke down in tears. Finally getting to see a Jaguar was a phenomenal experience for me.
However, as with previous Naturetrek trips it is not just about one animal, but the many creatures, both large and small, of the region, in this case the Pantanal. On the drive from the airport to Pousso Alegre, whilst spotlighting on the grounds of the lodge, a Tapir was observed drinking from a small pond. I really had to pinch myself at that sighting, but the best was yet to come. On the second day the group was sat quietly at a water hole when we heard a twig snap in the bushes. Our guide, Marcos, suggested that it was either a Tapir or a Cow. Eventually, out walked a Tapir and, as we watched in complete silence with breath held, another one appeared. For about 10 minutes they drank side by side before one disappeared back into the bushes. The second eventually followed, but only after inspecting the Capybara that had appeared.
Speaking of Capybara, these animals are fascinating to watch. They are abundant around the Pantanal and it would be easy after the first few sightings to forget about them. Fortunately, Marcos is an advocate of surveying the behaviour of animals. Our observations of this captivating creature included one eating a long piece of grass, which disappeared down its throat like a string of spaghetti; and the poor soul I spotted quietly swimming past the sleeping Jaguar. Then there was the one on its back, legs in the air, as a Cow Bird picked off the ticks. However, my favourite was the mother nursing her five youngsters before they all walked off together in a perfect example of follow-the-leader. I went away dreaming of seeing a cat and came home having fallen in love with a mouse (well, a giant rodent to be precise), but you know what I mean.
Another delightful experience was our encounter with a Giant Otter family. An adult had caught a fish and the youngsters were trying to ‘acquire’ it, by any means. The smallest member of the group eventually managed this and it charged off with the fish, which was almost the same size, the adult in hot pursuit - an amusing insight into Giant Otter behaviour. This sighting followed an earlier one of a family socialising before they all decided to use the family latrine. Even though this was a bit smelly it was a fascinating insight.
Our final stop was at the SouthWild Pantanal Lodge and, for me, the birds were the highlight of this part of the trip. With shaky legs I climbed up the Jaribu Stork observation tower and stood breathless at the top (not entirely due to the climb) as I watched an adult feeding its chicks. This was just the start of the ‘bird festival’. Close encounters with numerous types of Kingfishers, Toco Toucans, Orange-backed Troupials and multiple birds of prey followed. These were all observed with glee.
However, before I went on this trip there were two birds in particular that I really wanted to see. The first being the Agami Heron, a breathtakingly colourful bird that I did not even know existed eight months ago. We were fortunate to have two sightings, the second in bright sunshine which only served to augment its beauty.
The second bird on my wish list was the Great Potoo. Unlike the Agami Heron, I was very aware of this bird having first seen it on a David Attenborough programme many years ago. From that first viewing onwards this has been the ultimate bird sighting for me. Its cleaver disguise and extraordinarily shaped mouth have fascinated me for many years. When I realised that we were looking for this bird on our first walk around the lodge my heart quickened and to say that I was excited would be an understatement. When we eventually found it I am not ashamed to say that I once again cried tears of joy - although at the time I was glad I had my sunglasses on.
Even when I first became lucky enough to be able to make these wonderful trips in search of nature I never imagined that I would one day be fortunate enough to see the most camouflaged bird and one of the most elusive cats in the world and all on the same trip.
Read more about our 'Brazil - Just Jaguars' holiday.