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A client travelled on our 'South Africa - Best of the Cape' tour and submitted this entry to our writing competition.
African Penguin by Sarah Barnes
South Africa's Western Cape - The Unplanned Wild Experience!
Driving in to the resort and harbour town of Hermanus after a most satisfying day's birdwatching, I reflected on my decision to include an overnight stay in the town. My purpose in staying here was to provide an opportunity for my happy throng of travelling birders to enjoy ‘the best land-based whale watching experience in the world’, which my research had eagerly promised. When organising the private trip many months earlier with Paul at Naturetrek, I had expressed my desire to include the overnight stay at Hermanus, even if this meant some birding time might be curtailed.
When planning this trip I had wanted to include some variety to the itinerary in an effort to heighten the possibility of close encounters with whales. Hermanus is one of the most famous whale watching localities on Earth and home to the world's only ‘whale crier’ who blows his kelp horn to inform people when whales put in appearances, which they frequently do. Southern Right Whales calve in the bay in impressive numbers and can be easily seen, even from one's bedroom window. (On one occasion I did actually lie in the bath in my room watching whales with my binoculars - thankfully there is no photographic evidence of this available!) Taking in the unique experience of being in such close proximity of these gentle leviathans was the intended bonus to our birding itinerary. And we were not to be disappointed.
The day had started extremely well. A rocky outcrop at the nearby small holiday village of Rooi Els provided one of the most sought-after Cape endemics on every birder's ‘must see’ list - a thrush-sized bird with black and white plumage and a bright reddish orange breast and belly, known as a Cape Rockjumper. It is best found by looking for movement on rocks as it does exactly what its name suggests - it jumps from rock to rock. Everyone in our group enjoyed excellent views of a pair of Rockjumpers along with such special birds as a Ground Woodpecker (on the roof of a house) and the colourful Cape Rock Thrush. A leisurely lunch had followed at the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens in the company of such wonderful birds as Malachite Sunbird, Cape Batis, Speckled Mousebird and the elusive Victorin's Warbler.
Our hotel was located on the seafront opposite a natural jetty of rocks jutting out to sea some 20 metres or so. As light was fading, I suggested we all meet the following morning before breakfast on these rocks to see if we could view any whales. At first light, I strolled from the front door of the hotel the 30 or so paces to the rocks and sat on a rock at the far end, immediately noticing 2 whales, a mother and calf, on the sea surface less than 200 metres away.
After they had submerged, I was aware of another whale gently rising to the surface less than 10 metres from where I was sitting. With no need for my binoculars, I was transfixed and the following 10 seconds will remain with me for the rest of my life. I looked directly into the eyeball of this gentle leviathan and it looked directly at me. A mixture of reverence, awe and mutual respect overcame me as I connected in such a gentle and calm manner with another species. The moment was totally unexpected, could never have been planned and was all the more memorable for that. I simply sat and took in the entire experience.
As I alighted to return for breakfast, I was aware of other members of the group around me. One asked if I had seen the close whale and I replied that I had. He said it had been a very moving experience and I replied that I knew precisely what he had meant. It transpired that several members of the group had witnessed and shared their own emotional moment with this whale.
After breakfast we set off on our journey around the farmland loop area of the Overberg peninsula taking in many Blue Cranes with their elegant plumes, Jackal Buzzards on telegraph poles proudly displaying their smart red tails, and majestic African Fish Eagles soaring and gliding over us. Our bird list was increasing dramatically.
However, the overriding memory was that moment when my eye connected with the eye of a magnificent wild creature - that moment of oneness and understanding, even empathy, with a wild and beautiful animal. This is the moment which will live with me forever.
We raised our glasses that evening to a never-to-be-forgotten shared magical moment. I was so pleased that I had included the overnight stay in Hermanus. I, and many other members of our group, had benefited beyond words.
Read more about our 'South Africa - Best of the Cape' holiday.