Jaguar

When the opportunity arose to lead our ‘South America's Big Cats’ holiday in October 2019, I naturally jumped at the chance. Pumas in Torres del Paine followed by the simply remarkable Pantanal … the answer could only be “yes please!” On reaching Punta Arenas, the capital of Chile’s southernmost region, we were all itching to get out and explore. With our hotel overlooking the legendary Strait of Magellan, we were soon enjoying a pier covered in Imperial and Rock Cormorants with smart Dolphin Gulls mixed in, as Southern Giant Petrels cruised by offshore. A short distance along the coast, the widespread and beautiful Upland Goose fed in a wetland alongside our first Chiloe Wigeon, Flying Steamer Ducks and delightful White-tufted Grebes.

For the next four nights, it was all about the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park. First though, we made the most of our journey to it, stopping almost immediately at another superb little wetland on the edge of Punta Arenas, where we enjoyed close views of Buff-winged Cinclodes, Crested Ducks and both Ashy-headed and Ruddy-headed Geese. Then, further on, we passed flocks of Chilean Flamingoes, Blacknecked Swans and our first mammal, a Culpeo Fox, a species not unlike our own Red Fox. Suddenly, the peaks of the spectacular Torres del Paine National Park loomed into view. Soon we were enjoying wonderfully low fly-bys from majestic Andean Condors, and our first large herds of Guanacos. We had arrived!

The next three days were unforgettable! It was crisp and clear on our first early morning as we drove slowly through this astonishing landscape, peering out of the window as our eyes adjusted to the first rays of light and the dramatic scenery illuminated by the rising sun. All of a sudden, loud Guanaco alarm calls had us jumping out of the van – a herd was charging away along a nearby ridge, and careful scanning revealed our first Puma, a stunning adult female. We all had great views as two young joined her and they moved slowly up the hillside together and away. What a start! We went on to enjoy an unprecedented 11 different Pumas, including some outrageously close encounters, with several animals being no more than a few metres away! As if the Pumas weren’t enough, the scenery was incredible and the birding was excellent too, including point-blank views of Magellanic Woodpeckers around our hotel, plus Silver Teal, Bronze-winged Duck and the amazing Torrent Duck. We were also incredibly lucky to find the rare Andean Deer, whilst a Patagonian Hog-nosed Skunk was another star species enjoyed by all.

Packing away the thermals, it was time to head north to Brazil. Here, enveloped in the heat of the Pantanal, we first marvelled at the incredible concentration of wildlife to be found along the famous Transpantaneira road. We stopped at pools laden with Yacare Caiman and families of Capybaras, and had fabulous views of three Crab-eating Foxes and a party of South American Coatis. There were birds everywhere … just one small roadside pool holding Wood and Jabiru Storks, Ringed and Green Kingfishers, Green Ibis, Striated Heron, Rufescent Tiger Heron and Wattled Jacana! Later on, we were truly spoiled for Jaguars. On one magical afternoon outing from the Flotel – our excellent accommodation for four nights – we rounded a bend on the beautiful Piquiri River and came face-to-face with two Jaguar cubs swimming across the channel with their anxious mother calling to them nearby. We watched on in awe as she swam to them and then bounded back to land through the shallows. In total we encountered eight different Jaguars, along with some wonderful Giant Otter families, a Lowland Tapir and a lovely Southern Tamandua resting in a tree.

The chance to watch Ocelot at close quarters and a Lowland Tapir munching on fresh mangoes just metres from us were two more special moments, with flocks of Hyacinth Macaws, King Vultures and numerous Snail Kites amongst the many avian highlights. There is no doubt that this tour (which is really two holidays rolled into one) offers the very best chance of seeing South America’s two top apex predators, alongside some of the continent’s other spectacular wildlife.

To find out more about our South America's Big Cats holiday, click on the 'tour info' button below:

Tour info