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An entry to our 2019 Writing Competition, Karami Ure travelled to Australia on a Naturetrek Tailormade holiday.
On a breezy, sunny day we made our way excitedly to our rendezvous. Quickly, as part of a small group of would-be snorkellers, we were kitted out with our wet suits, flippers and masks and soon boarded the boat that was our base for the trip. As we slipped anchor, the crew briefed us on safety and the day’s plan: blows from Right Whales and mighty Humpbacks had been seen off the Cape Range point. Our excitement grew: we hoped to be fortunate enough to have the privilege of snorkelling with these giants of the sea. The omens were good, although a choppy sea with a good swell was proving a little uncomfortable for some.
As we journeyed out towards the Ningaloo Reef, we started seeing whales for ourselves. It was hard to focus on the briefing of what we were expected to do. Quickly, theory turned to a practical experience as the crew put us through our snorkelling paces to check everyone was sufficiently competent to participate in the sessions. We formed two groups: only one group at a time would enter the water to see the Humpback Whales at close range.
Almost before the brief was complete, the shout went up. Whales were sufficiently close for group one to try their luck. With a flurry, around 10 people, including the guides and photographer, were in the water. At times, the swell and waves hid everyone from view. Those of us left on the boat felt slightly envious as the blows from the target whale came closer. These feelings increased when shortly after, a whale suddenly breached, not once but twice, about 30 yards from the snorkellers. It soon became clear that a relaxed mother Humpback and her calf were happy to spend time playing with and circling the group before moving on. The lucky swimmers made their way back to the boat: everyone had large grins of delight on their faces as they hauled out onto the deck. We were amazed to learn none of them had seen the acrobatic aerial performance.
Before we could hear too much more, the shout went up: group two was to enter the water. Another whale was approaching our craft. We managed to slip quickly into the sea, and tried our hardest to follow the instructions of the guide. We moved as a group one way or another, to ensure we were on a good line for “our” humpback. Sadly, the whale chose to dive, so it was back onto the boat, filled with disappointment and hoping another whale or two would come our way.
Good news: another whale. Quickly, we replaced our flippers and masks to re-enter the water. This time we were lucky: the whale did not dive, but passed serenely to one side. He (or she, we could not tell) was huge, but to be so close to such a beautiful creature was breathtaking. All too quickly, the whale moved on, and we made our way back to the boat, but horrors, my husband had not seen the whale: slightly out of position he had failed to catch sight of it.
All was not lost: there was room for him to join the first group of snorkellers, and this time he was lucky. A huge whale passed under the group, like a large silent submarine. This was great: everyone on the boat had now seen Humpbacks in the water. Group two then entered the water again. We saw a second Humpback: we were delighted.
It was still all actions go with our group preparing to enter the water for a third time, when the crew received an amazing piece of news. There was a Whale Shark close by, and we were to snorkel with this, if it stayed near the surface. Excitement mounted. In no time at all, we were entering the water to watch a giant of the fish world glide past us. What a view: a large gaping mouth in a massive flat head, the spotty checkerboard pattern of its back, its huge gills: all were so easy to see. Too quickly the experience was over: but the Whale Shark was being friendly. We were allowed to do another snorkel, and this time, we swam with the fish for as long as we could keep up, no easy task. It was magnificent. The memory will live with all of us that were on board that day.
More than satisfied with what we had experienced, a late lunch on board our boat with a glass of fizz was a fitting end to a wonderful day that had exceeded all our expectations and hopes.
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