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Our alarm sounded to begin another sunny day in August and in my just-awake haze, I tripped over something unexpected in the bedroom. A suitcase? Of course... we were off to Monterey... to see whales!
The trip began with surprising ease, straight through Heathrow controls and then with full thrust behind us, up and away briefly through a thunder storm for our ‘hop across the Pond’ (and a continent too) beginning with a sight of Iceland, over Greenland and then down across Canada. Place names appeared on the flight map that had only previously been things of schooldays geography lessons – Hudson Bay, Montana, Idaho, Nevada and eventually over a bustling San Francisco into the International Airport. Following U.S. immigration, with fingerprints, photographs, inside-leg measurements all taken, we reclaimed our bags and were met by Peter Dunn whose cap, emblazoned with the logo ‘Naturetrek’, proclaimed that he was to be our leader, guide and mentor for the week.
The following morning, with body-clocks still attuned to the UK time, we awoke around 04:00, as predicted by Peter and, after a breakfast of pancakes with maple syrup and fruit, we set off for the harbour. The wharf tourist shops and eateries were quickly by-passed in favour of harbour seals, brown pelican, gulls and swallows. Even a Black-crowned Night Heron stood guard near the jetty. Then a super “Ooh-ah!” moment as a Sea Otter with pup on her tummy floated by with mum gently rubbing her offspring with obvious tenderness and affection.
“Cast off” and the Sea Wolf II motored out of the harbour where seals, cormorants, and pelicans adorned the rocky breakwater – on towards the deep ocean canyon that generated the marine up-swells so attractive to krill- and small fish-eating whales, dolphins and porpoise. About 9 miles from port, having already filled numerous camera memory cards with shots of stunning shearwaters as they glided over a glass-like sea with wing tip just cutting the surface we then came across... Blue Whales – a mother and calf, blowing then diving! Then, another blow and then another – this time fin whale! Keeping on, yet another blow was spotted and there was the unmistakeable tail fluke of a Humpback Whale. Wow! What else could we expect? Only more whales – with another Humpback and Blue appearing as we turned for home. In between all this excitement, there were the sightings of Black-footed Albatross, close-ups of Sunfish waiting for the attendant gulls to clean them of parasites at the surface and delicate phalaropes spinning away from the boat’s wake and settling on the floating kelp. With auklets, terns and more otter escorting us back to dock, we were on “excitement overload”!
We said to Peter, “How can you top that?” but... he did: a scenic drive through tall pines to white sandy beaches, another morning at sea with Humpback Whale, dolphins and porpoise, a jaunt along the Carmel estuary and valley – sadly Clint wasn’t at home so we couldn’t “make his day!” plus a whole day’s trip along the scenic Big Sur coastal highway, stopping for butterflies – Monarch, Lorquin’s Admiral and Common Buckeye where woodpeckers and Ground Squirrels kept watch over their territories until squealed alarms of vulture or hawk fly-overs sent them scurrying away. Some time was spent watching huge Elephant Seals hauled out onto the beach with surfbirds not living up to their names and dashing hurriedly away from the waves. The return journey was broken by more sightings of Blue and Humpback Whale “blows” plus the incredible spectacle of around 15 THOUSAND shearwaters in a feeding frenzy slick, covering the inshore waters.
The following days gave us more successful boat trips along Monterey Bay, a birding visit Northwards to Moss Landing plus deep rolling hills patrolled by a variety of hawks and Golden Eagles with chaparral distinctive of western films. Here we stopped at a typical ranching farm for a chat with the friendly local fire chief and to admire his collection of fire engines (the boys) and his horses (the gals).
Back at the hotel, with stomachs full of sticky pecan pie, an evening walk was required down to the Monterey coast through a peaceful memorial park where Anna’s Hummingbirds darted like moths from one flower blossom to the next. On the sandy shore, Turnstones plied their inquisitive trade and hermit crabs danced their intricate rock pool ballet whilst a flight of pelicans were reflected in the blue water where gaps in the kelp allowed... pure bliss.
With cetacea and also bird sightings too numerous to mention, fantastic scenery, good company, a splendid guide and mentor, we had a final tour of San Francisco city streets and photographs against the backdrop of the fog-less Golden Gate Bridge before our return to England. What wonderful memories!
Read more about our 9-day 'Whales & Dolphins of Monterey Bay' holiday.