Butterflies of Southern Greece

For all lovers of the natural world there is no finer spectacle than a meadow brimming with wild flowers attended by dancing clouds of brightly coloured butterflies. This is a scene that epitomises the drowsy days of summer and yet, for those of us living in the intensively farmed regions of Great Britain, it is one that is consigned to the wistful memories of the past. Fortunately, there are still areas in Europe where a century of change has scarcely diminished the profusion of flowers, and where the spirit can still be uplifted by the myriad of butterflies sipping nectar in the summer sunshine. Our relaxing, week-long tour focuses on two of the most famous butterfly mountains of Greece — Mount Chelmos and Mount Parnassos. Situated on opposite sides of the Gulf of Corinth, these two mountain massifs present a wide range of habitats, from hot Mediterranean scrub, pine forests and olive groves, to mountain streams, alpine pastures and meadows, rocky scree and even patches of snow! We will be searching mainly for butterflies, dragonflies and other insect-life, but also keeping an eye open for birds, lizards, and any other wildlife we might encounter.

During our week we will be based firstly in the small town of Kalavrita, situated on the north-west slopes of Mount Chelmos; part of the Aroanian Mountains on the Peloponnese. After several days spent in leisurely exploration of this fascinating area by minibus and on foot we will then transfer to Delphi, home of the famous Temple of Apollo and very convenient for access to the Parnassos National Park situated just to the north. The richness of the butterflies of this region is legendary amongst entomologists, but it is perhaps not so much the scarce or restricted species which impress the visitor as much as the sheer diversity and abundance of individual butterflies in some areas. The identification of over 50 species of butterfly in a day is quite feasible, and the sight of hundreds of Balkan Marbled Whites, Black-veined Whites and Clouded Yellows crowding together on patches of thistles, astonishes those of us more used to a mere scattering of butterflies in cooler northern climes. On the forested slopes of Mount Chelmos we can find Grecian Copper, Escher’s Blue, Meleager’s Blue, at least three species of Anomalous Blue (including the endemic Chestnut Anomalous Blue and Grecian Anomalous Blue), Great Banded Grayling, Queen of Spain Fritillary, Cleopatra and another south-east European speciality — the White-banded Grayling. At the summit plateau we will search for the localised Greek Clouded Yellow, Mountain Small White and Clouded Apollo, even endeavouring to track down the famous but elusive Chelmos Blue! Sunny woodland glades in the surrounding valleys are graced with numerous Silver-washed Fritillaries, Large Tortoiseshell, Southern White Admiral and the occasional Camberwell Beauty. Descending to the river valleys south of the massif, we will encounter various dragonflies such as Calopteryx virgo, Lestes barbarus and the bizarre Onychogomphus forcipatus as we walk along the edges of the streams, whilst Cetti’s Warblers pour out their explosive torrents of song from riverine bushes and Great Reed Warblers grate noisily from marshy vegetation. This is also a good area to look for the endemic Peloponnese Wall Lizard basking in the morning sun, and Kotschy’s Gecko, an Asian reptile with a range that just stretches into southern Greece.

Our final destination, Mount Parnassos, is similarly blessed with an abundance of butterfly species and has its own range of attractions, including Blue Argus, Balkan Copper, Krueper’s Small White, Zephyr Blue, Freyer’s Grayling and Oriental Meadow Brown. Ascending to the alpine meadows, haunt of Alpine Chough and Rock Thrush, we will search for some of the butterfly species of the higher altitudes such as Clouded Apollo, Purple-shot Copper, Greek Clouded Yellow and perhaps the unobtrusive Black Ringlet. Two full days exploring the various elevations and habitats of this butterfly-rich mountain will be amalgamated with a visit to the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. Even at this world-famous archaeological site there is an impressive population of butterflies in the surrounding hillsides and a diverse selection of bird species including Rock Nuthatch, Black-eared Wheatear and Ruppell’s Warbler.

Greek hospitality, warm Mediterranean weather, magnificent scenery, a touch of history and, above all, a bumper show of butterflies makes an unbeatable combination for everyone with an enthusiasm for these jewels of the insect world.