Dragonflies & Birds of the Camargue

The Camargue, that vast wetland which lies within the arms of the Rhone Delta, conjures up romantic images of wild white horses and black fighting bulls, gypsy festivals and the best olives in the world. It is also France’s (perhaps even Europe’s) premier dragonfly site where, in July, we may hope to see over 30 species, most of them not seen in Britain. If you seek to be inspired by dragonflies, this is the trip for you, both with the sheer numbers and brilliance of the species that we should see. However, the region is better known to naturalists for its birdlife, and we will not neglect this aspect of the natural world during our dragonfly-quest, enjoying the Camargue’s large breeding population of Greater Flamingoes, abundant herons, egrets and storks, and healthy population of raptors such as kites, vultures and the rare Bonelli’s Eagle. We will make short excursions to the limestone hills of Les Alpilles in search of Eagle Owls and also to the bizarre pebbly landscape of La Crau, not only to watch sandgrouse and Lesser Kestrels, but also to enjoy the top dragonfly river flowing through it. Indeed, we offer the opportunity to understand and enjoy at first hand the quintessentially Mediterranean habitats of the garrigue and maquis and their associated wildlife.

We begin our holiday with an exciting exploration of Les Marais du Vigueirat, a large wetland nature reserve, in search of Orange-spotted Emeralds, Green-eyed Hawkers and Goblet Damselflies. Special permits will allow us to venture further into the reserve than the general public, where we will spend the day wandering through marshes, woodland, open dry meadows and along disused canals; as well as looking for dragonflies, we will enjoy a large colony of egrets and herons comprising eight different species. On another day we will visit the saline lakes where the Greater Flamingoes breed, amongst them such other wetland species as Whiskered Tern, Slender-billed Gull and Kentish Plover before focusing on the canal in the Vallee des Baux where at least 15 species of dragonfly may be found in just a small area, including Southern Skimmers and White Featherleg. If conditions are right we will also make a trip to watch swarms of dragonflies coming in to roost in reedbeds before sunset, and to watch Dusk Hawkers.

Our fourth day will start early to ensure that we see the best of the wildlife, initially focusing on the habitat of dry garrigue and olive groves where Short-toed Eagles, exquisite Rollers, and various butterflies and Ant Lions may be found. Later we will search a marshy area for the delicate Banded Darter and then head into the limestone hills to observe Alpine Swift and Crag Martins, and to look for breeding Egyptian Vultures in Les Alpilles. Views from the easily accessible summit at La Caume provide amazing sunset panoramas.

On other days we will visit a Bee-eater colony which feasts largely on dragonflies (most probably including Red-veined Darters and Scarlet Dragonflies), enjoy breeding Collared Pratincoles, and check out the rice fields for tree frogs, various darters, Lesser Emperor and Scarce Blue-tailed Damselfly. At Saintes Maries de la Mer we will hope for such summer immigrants as Vagrant Emperor or large swarms of more widespread species, whilst the coastal dunes provide yet another contrasting habitat for both insects and flowers. We will also visit the wetlands of La Maison du Parc and the Mas d’Agon Observation Point and rice fields.

Finally we will explore La Crau, a pebbly desert full of life! Here, strange insects such as the enormous bright green Saga pedo, fairy-like ascalapids, praying mantis and bush crickets may all be found, plus bird species such as Hoopoe, Lesser Kestrel, Calandra Lark and Great Grey Shrike. The Peau de Meau River attracts an incredible number of dragonfly species; Blue-eyed Hooktails pose to be photographed on rocks whilst Yellow-tailed and Copper Demoiselles engage in courtship displays and Southern Blue Skimmers compete for airspace.

We will revisit La Crau on our last day, before returning to the airport, in search of yet more dragonflies, and we will also visit a nearby lake to look for Orange Featherlegs and other species. An action-packed end to a rich and varied holiday!