Guatemala - Birding in the Realm of the Maya

The small Central American country of Guatemala is tucked between Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador and is blessed with magnificent scenery, wildlife and culture — a place in which breathtaking Maya ruins rise from pristine rainforests inhabited by myriad colourful birds. Although the Spanish arrived in the 1500s and displaced the indigenous Maya people, this land still feels like their place... the 'place of the Maya'. Their influence is still found everywhere: in the world-famous remains of Maya cities and religious sites of which Tikal is the most magnificent; in the numerous languages and dialects that have evolved from their common ancestral tongue; and in the delicious cuisine, much of which is still based on ancient recipes. Guatemala is also home to one of the largest tracts of undisturbed rainforest in Central America and even the most well-travelled naturalist cannot fail to be impressed by its wealth of wildlife and, in particular, its avifauna.

We begin our tour in colonial La Antigua, its cobbled streets and bustling plazas lined with colourfully dressed vendors and intricate textiles and ceramics. Nearby is Finca El Pilar, where we will explore both humid broad-leafed and dry forests on quiet trails. Bushy-crested Jays and Pink-headed Warblers can often be seen here, along with Rose-throated Becard, Hairy Woodpecker, Chesnut-sided Shrike-vireo and Bar-winged Oriole. During the northern winter, Baltimore Oriole as well as Tennessee, Black-throated Green and Townsend’s Warblers are common, while such regional endemics as Rufous Sabrewing and Green-throated Mountain-gem are possible on the hummingbird feeders.

Next, we will drive west to Los Tarrales Reserve, on the southern slopes of Atitlán Volcano. Here, a 4-night stay at a quiet lodge endowed with old-world charm allows us to explore a range of altitudinal zones and habitats within the Atitlán Important Bird Area. Amongst these is the 9,000-foot cone of San Pedro Volcano that rises from the shores of the lake and which you may choose to walk up (to be rewarded with Horned Guans at the top!). We will also visit the Lost Tinamou Reserve, a small patchwork of subtropical forest at a lower altitude, which is a refuge for wildlife in amongst the surrounding agricultural land. Here we will look for birds such as Great Currasow, Collard Trogon and Tody Motmot, as well as a variety of hummingbirds including White-necked Jacobin, Violet Sabrewing and Blue-throated Goldentail, plus several species of oriole, tanager, vireo and warbler.

Moving on a little way north, we will spend the next two nights on the shores of Lake Atitlán, once home to the extinct Atitlán Grebe. Habitats surroundings are home to an exciting variety of species such as Montane Trogon, Rock Wren, Blue-throated Motmot, Speckled-breasted Oriole, Chestnut-sided Shrike-vireo, Lesser Roadrunner and Belted Flycatcher to name but a few. The lower parts of the slopes here are more humid and gardened with flowering plants, on which Rufous Sabrewing, White-eared and sometimes Garnet-throated Hummingbird and Sparkling-tailed Hummingbird can be seen and in the oak forests foraging mixed warbler flocks can be seen. 

The jewel in Guatemala’s crown, however, is the magnificent Maya ruins of Tikal! From around 200 to 900AD, Tikal dominated much of the Maya region politically, economically and militarily. Today, it is the best understood of the lowland Maya cities; its rulers and their dynasties — and many of their tombs, monuments, temples and palaces — have been well studied by archaeologists. The scale and majesty of Tikal lingers long in the memory of the modern visitor, especially those able to appreciate the rich birdlife of this site as well as its cultural appeal. Here, Ocellated Turkeys wander on deserted trails at dawn, and such sought-after birds as Pheasant Cuckoo and a plethora of other exciting Neotropical birds — flycatchers, hummingbirds, euphonias, puffbirds and honeycreepers — may be seen. Mammals such as Guatemalan Howler Monkey, Central American Spider Monkey and White-nosed Coati may also be encountered.

Finally we will explore the clear azure waters of Laguna Yaxha and then, after a night in Guatemala City, we conclude our holiday with a short visit to the pine-oak forests of Cerro Alux, where we will look for Blue-and-white Mockingbird, Rufous-collared Robin, Rufous-browed Wren, Blue-throated Motmot and Black-capped Siskin and many more — species which will provide a fitting finale to our holiday of colourful birdlife, mystical ruins and stunning volcanoes!

Resplendent Quetzal Extension — One of the main species that we hope to see on this trip is Guatemala’s national bird, the Resplendent Quetzal, and whilst in the area of Lake Atitlan and Los Tarrales we have a good chance. However, there is another area of the country, Las Verapaces, which is a hotspot for this most magnificent species, and whilst seeing one can never be guaranteed, a visit here would improve the chances overall. Located about 3.5 to 4 hours' drive to the north-east of the capital are the neighbouring reserves of Biotopo del Quetzal and Los Ranchitos, both of which are quite small but pack a punch on the wildlife front (the location is awkward to fit into our regular itinerary, as it is the other side of Guatemala City from Antigua, Los Tarrales and Lake Atitlan). As the name suggests, Biotopo del Quetzal is a private reserve that was established to help conserve the Quetzal, but is also home to a wealth of other birds and animals. Spot-breasted Oriole, Garnet-throated Hummingbird and Collared Trogon are amongst some of the attractive avian residents. Los Ranchitos is the larger of the two reserves and therefore home to even more highland specialities, and is also very active in Queztal conservation efforts.