Hungary in Spring

Hungary is a scenic land of wooded hills and endless flat plains, dotted with reed-fringed lakes and intersected by one of Europe’s great rivers, the mighty Danube. With such a variety of landscapes and habitats on offer it is not surprising to learn that Hungary is also one of Europe’s very best wildlife destinations, in particular for its abundant and varied birdlife. Early May is an exciting time in Hungary’s avian calendar, as resident species are joined by migrating waders, warblers and raptors on their way north, filling the woods with choruses of birdsong. During this tour we will journey through of some the country’s most picturesque ‘Magyar’ landscapes, from the forested Zemplen Hills in the north-east, to the lowland steppe, grassland and farmlands of the Kiskunság and Hortobágy National Parks. Aside from its avifauna, Hungary also has much to offer in terms of butterflies and other wildlife. Not only a spectacular country rich in nature, culturally Hungary boasts a wealth of folklore, as well as being famed for its full-bodied wines and hearty food. With all this on offer throughout the tour we will sample only authentic Hungarian cuisine!

Having flown to Budapest, the capital of Hungary split in two by the Danube, our first destination is the Kiskunság National Park, just one hour’s drive away. This tranquil lowland region of steppe, sandy dunes, farmland and wooded copses is one of Hungary’s most important areas for the Great Bustard, which we will hope to see in full display / displaying! Collared Pratincoles also breed here, whilst ponds and gravel pits attract all three marsh terns, plus Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck. Fringing reedbeds are home to Moustached, Savi’s and Great Reed Warblers, whilst overhead there are hunting Montagu’s Harrier, Saker Falcon and Red-footed Falcon. Roller and Lesser Grey Shrike dot the roadside wires and we will look for Scops Owl, Long-eared Owl and Nightjar during an evening excursion.

For our next three nights we head northeast to the Zemplen Hills. The Zemplen is characterised by dense broad-leaved forests, traditionally farmed fields, flowering meadows and vineyards. This is the best area in the country for Ural and Eagle Owls, and no less than nine species of woodpecker are present for potential sightings, including the rare White-backed Woodpecker. It is also facilitates the breeding of bountiful birds of prey including Goshawk, Eastern Imperial, Short-toed and Lesser Spotted Eagles. The scratchy ‘crex-crex-crex’ of the Corncrake may be all that we record of this elusive species, but there will be many more conspicuous birds to enjoy such as Woodlark, Red-backed Shrike, Black Redstart, Barred Warbler and Golden Oriole, to name but a few.

We will then travel to the famous Hortobágy National Park for our final two nights, the foremost wildlife region of Hungary and one of Europe’s most valuable ecological areas. This is a flat land of distant horizons, dotted with small woodlands and reed-fringed fish ponds, dominated by the lowland semi-steppe and grassland known as the ‘puszta’.

Abundant small mammals and insects live in the grasslands making this an excellent area for raptors including Long-legged Buzzards, Imperial Eagles, Red-footed Falcons, Montagu’s Harriers and Saker Falcons. The curious, gopher-like Souslik (a small ground squirrel) is also a favoured prey of the larger raptors. During our time in the Hortobágy we have another opportunity to enjoy sightings of the massive Great Bustard, along with Stone Curlews, Collared Pratincoles and hawking White-winged Terns. White Storks nesting on the roofs of cottages, shepherds with their scruffy ‘puli’ dogs, and flocks of gaggling white geese all add to the atmosphere of the puszta, which is, not surprisingly, steeped in folklore and myth.

The vast, scattered complexes of fish ponds throughout Hortobágy are a magnet for migrating waders and passerines and local marshland birds alike. At this time of year the reedbeds resonate with a cacophony of song, from the loud, harsh notes of Great Reed Warblers, to the reeling of Savi’s Warblers and the sweeter, mellow songs of Marsh and Moustached Warblers. By early May herons and egrets will be nesting in large raucous colonies. Spoonbill, Great Egret, Purple Heron and Glossy Ibis all occur here, as does the secretive Bittern which can often be heard booming from the surrounding reedbeds. Other interesting species include Whiskered Tern, Black-necked Grebe and Pygmy Cormorant, whilst a host of migrating waders and wildfowl further augment the variety.

With our holiday at an end we will return to Budapest. From here you can either complete your journey home or perhaps consider extending your stay with a couple of nights in Hungary’s attractive and vibrant capital.