India - Dragonflies & Butterflies of the Western Ghats

The Western Ghats comprise an ancient chain of hills that runs from north to south along the western coast of India. They form a biodiversity hotspot and centre of endemism that is of special appeal to the naturalist, such is the impressive range of endemic and near endemic species that they hold. On this exciting holiday we will focus particularly on the beautiful dragonflies, damselflies and butterflies of the region, many of which are endemic, in the company of David Raju, an outstanding all-round Indian naturalist from this area who is particularly expert in this field. He is also a renowned frog expert, adept at finding the most exquisite and colourful species that the untrained eye would never spot, not to mention the region’s birds and mammals.

We will concentrate our explorations on the lush forests of the Western Ghats, exploring a rich tapestry of habitats that includes scenic hills and mountains, extensive tracts of characteristic evergreen forest, grasslands, and beautiful lakes, streams and other wetlands. These landscapes and ecosystems are significant in that, not only do they sustain large human communities, but they also support a rich natural history, so much of it unique to the region.

We begin in Cochin, from where we will drive straight to Kumarakom, on the eastern banks of the vast Lake Vembanad, the largest lake in Kerala and the longest in India. The Coconut Lagoon Hotel, where we will be staying, has a wonderful butterfly garden. Here we should find such beautiful species as Southern Birdwing, Common Jay, Tailed Jay, Chocolate Albatross, Blue Tiger, Great Orange-tip, Monkey Puzzle, Gram Blue, Tiny Grass Blue and Bush Hopper, amongst others.  We will also search the lakeside, canals and ponds in the region looking for the many dragonflies and damselflies found here — species such as Blue Grass Dartlet, Kerala Dartlet, Pygmy Blue Spot, Common Picture Wing and Ground Skimmer. The paddyfields here also attract a good number of migratory dragonflies, amongst them the Globe Skimmer, which flies all the way from Africa!

Next, we will travel north to Thattekad Wildlife Sanctuary, stopping en route at a small stream to look for more dragonflies.  Here over 40 different species of dragonfly have been recorded within a 100-metre stretch — amongst them Malabar Torrent Dart, Stream Glory, Black-tipped Forest Glory, River Helidior and others. Butterflies will also be an attraction here, with species such as Grey Count, Commander and Common Sailor. Thattekad Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as the Dr. Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary in honour of the pre-eminent 20th century Indian ornithologist, is situated on the northern bank of the Periyar River. The Sanctuary was established in 1983, based on a recommendation made by Dr. Salim Ali many years previously. He described Thattekad in the 1930s as the richest bird habitat in peninsular India, comparable only with that of the eastern Himalaya.  Much of the forest of that time has been lost, but the surviving areas certainly give glimpses of the rich diversity of the once widespread lowland forests of Kerala, and the area still remains excellent for butterflies and dragonflies. The Clipper, Common Rose, Crimson Rose, Malabar Rose, Tamil Catseye, Red Helen and Banded Blue Pierrot are just some of the butterflies we should see here, while dragonfly species may include Crimson Marsh Glider, Emerald Banded Skimmer, Splendid Dartlet, Fulvous Forest Skimmer and many others. For birders, this is also a good spot for Sri Lankan Frogmouth.

Finally, we head south-east into the more moist evergreen forests of the Western Ghats, afforded protection within the Periyar Tiger Reserve. Its 777 square kilometres provide a haven for a wide range of mammals, including Tiger, Asian Elephant, Gaur, Sloth Bear, Leopard, Asian Wild Dog, Nilgiri Langur, Lion-tailed Macaque and Malabar Giant Squirrel.  Periyar also supports a wealth of dragonflies which include Blue-tailed Forest Hawk, Blue Marsh Hawk, Crimsontailed Marsh Hawk, Blue Hawklet, Ruby Marsh Dart, Emerald Spreadwing and Travancore Torrent Dart. Many spectacular butterflies also occur here, amongst them Paris Peacock, Black-vein Sergeant, Western Centaur Oak Blue, Malabar Raven and Malabar Tree Nymph, while the birdlife includes several of the species found only in southern India and Sri Lanka, such as Malabar Trogon and Malabar Grey Hornbill.