Sweden in Winter

This is a holiday that offers quality rather than quantity. A quality of light (during daylight hours!) and some quality birds and photographic opportunities. Indeed, winter birdwatching in northern Scandinavia is very special. A time when, although a limited number of species is present, such beautiful birds as Waxwings, Crossbills and Bullfinches tend to look even more exquisite in the magical winter light, and when almost every medium-sized bird adorning a treetop is likely to be something special — a forest grouse, a Nutcracker, a Goshawk or even a Hawk Owl.

We will be based in the snow-laden lowlands of Svartådalen in central Sweden. Svartådalen (the Black River Valley) offers a pleasing patchwork of deciduous and coniferous forests, farmland, and lakes and wetlands, frozen and snow-covered in winter. We explore this quiet and generally under-exploited landscape via small, winding roads, looking out for such winter visitors as Great Grey Shrikes and Rough-legged Buzzards. Resident Goshawks, and both Golden and White-tailed Eagles also frequent the area, whilst both Hawk Owls and Pygmy Owls are regularly seen throughout the winter as they sit in the treetops waiting for their favourite prey — voles — to show on the ground beneath them. Hawk Owls, in particular, once they have found a reliable source of food, will often stay in the same area for months during the winter, before moving north to their breeding grounds in March.

On cold, clear days, the air is dry and icy and the light simply stunning as it turns to picture postcards the pretty, bright, red-painted wooden farmhouses and the glistening white, snow-covered surroundings. On our excursions we will not lack for plentiful snacks and hot drinks, preferably enjoyed beside an open-air fire; however, the bitter cold burns energy, and after a full day’s birding it is wonderful to retreat into a warm cottage and to sit in front of a welcoming log fire for a cup of afternoon tea and consideration of the day’s sightings. Indeed, both of the comfortable countryside hotels we use during this short break offer hearty local food and a good atmosphere.

Each day, during our winter birding outings, we will not just scan from the roadsides in our vehicle, but will take walks into the forest and spend time at bird feeding stations, positioned in a variety of habitats, each attracting a different range of species. At one such feeding station at a garden feeder in the southern part of Svartådalen we should see Hawfinches and magnificent Bullfinches amongst a host of other finches, tits and thrushes. Further north, in a forest clearing, Nutcrackers and Greyheaded Woodpeckers are the main attractions, together with a variety of forest tits and other passerines. Many of these birds have become very tame over the years, and Crested, Willow and Coal Tits will sometimes feed from your hand or sit on your camera lens whilst curious Nutcrackers gather hazelnuts just metres away.

On one day we will drive north for a couple of hours to a feeding station at Ockelbo. Here, surrounded by the extensive taiga forests which wrap around the planet at this high latitude, we will look for curious Siberian Jays which regularly visit the feeding station in February. Greyheaded Woodpecker, Crested Tit and Willow Tit are also likely, whilst en route we will stop at the River Dalälven where Dippers (of the Black-bellied race) are found and where Pygmy Owls can sometimes be seen by the roadside. We should also be vigilant throughout the tour for flocks of softly trilling Waxwings, which are often seen feasting on berries in Swedish gardens during the cold winter months.

On our final morning we will walk in the forest in search of Hazelhen, Black Grouse and perhaps, even, Capercaillie. We will also look out for Goshawks, and both Golden and White-tailed Eagles, whilst occasionally Three-toed or Black Woodpeckers are encountered here. Mammals, too, will not be overlooked during this holiday, for we have a good chance of encountering such common species as Elk, Roe Deer, Red Deer, Red Fox, both Brown and Mountain Hare, Red Squirrel, Stoat, Weasel and Mink, and a slim chance of one of the more elusive residents — a Lynx, Wolf, Beaver, Otter or Wild Boar! We will also have fun deciphering their tracks.