Tailormade Holidays in Panama

The easternmost province of Panama, Darién is where Central America meets the giant landmass of South America. Not surprisingly, many southern species not found in the rest of Central America have been recorded here. Much of the province is remote and covered by virtually impenetrable forest and marshland – indeed, the Darién marks the single break in the 30,000km Pan-American Highway network. There is no road for 106km between Yaviza in Panama and Turbo in Colombia – the famous ‘Darién Gap’. The area is exceptional for birds in particular. The list exceeds 500 species, amongst them breeding Harpy Eagles, plus Golden-headed Quetzal, a vast range of antbirds, flycatchers, trogons, motmots and other forest birds.

This national park is on the doorstep of Panama City, yet boasts one of the world’s best-known birding lodges, the Canopy Tower. The park contains superb rainforest and has a bird list approaching 500 species. There are many sites within its 220 square kilometres, including the Chagres River, the Old Gamboa Road and the Camino del Oleoducto, the legendary ‘Pipeline Road’. The latter doesn’t sound exciting but is a 17.5 kilometres north-south cut right through the rainforest that was used to lay a pipeline to serve the adjacent Canal. Now somewhat overgrown, it is one of the foremost sites for birds in the whole of the Americas, with about 400 species recorded. One of the most exciting experiences along this road is to encounter an army ant trail, with its accompanying specialised, obliging antbirds. Apart from its avifauna, the park is superb for a range of mammals, reptiles, amphibians, butterflies and plants.

The town of El Valle, as it’s usually called, is a short distance south-west of Panama City, in the province of Coclé. It is unusual for being built entirely within a volcanic caldera, and there are plenty of hot springs in the area, as well as a geological museum. Situated above 600m, it is cooler than the Canal Zone and offers a range of activities such as mountain biking and horse riding, as well as excellent birding and other wildlife.

The Chiriqui Highlands lie in the west of Panama and are easily reached on good roads from the centrally located Canal Zone and city. Away from the South American influences of eastern Panama, this is the prime area for endemic birds and other wildlife within the country. One of the specialities, although not endemic, is the incomparable Resplendent Quetzal, one of the most sought-after birds in the world, as well as the Bare-necked Umbrellabird and Three-wattled Bellbird. Baru Volcano National Park protects the summit of its eponymous peak, at 3,475m, from which, on a clear day, you can see both coasts.

The country’s most famous feature is the 82-kilometre-long Panama Canal. Linking the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, the latter via the Caribbean Sea, the Canal saves shipping a hazardous circuit around Cape Horn, and several thousand extra miles of travel. About 40 vessels pass the system of locks and artificial lakes every day, typically paying up to $200,000 each for the privilege. The Canal is a lively and fascinating tourist attraction in its own right. Panama City itself is a vibrant city of shiny tall buildings and bustle, with Spanish colonial architecture and an interesting historic centre. Within its confines is the largest tropical forest park inside any Latin American city, the Metropolitan Park, with over 250 species of birds recorded. A partial gravel road ascends upwards to give a fantastic view of the city.

This is a small area in western Panama with very much its own feel. It lies on Panama’s Caribbean coast, close to the Costa Rican border, and consists of a peninsula and archipelago of islands. It is also an excellent birding spot, with Bare-necked Umbrellabird and Purple-throated Mountain-gem among the numerous highlights.