Turkey's Dragonflies

Turkey’s aptly named ‘turquoise coast’ stretches along the intricate and mountainous coastline of Anatalya and Mugla, provinces in the south-west of the country. The region is not only blessed with sunny skies, warm seas, pristine beaches and fascinating archaeology, but is home to an exotic mix of wildlife, a result of Turkey’s position at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Here it is possible to find wildlife typical of both continents, European species breeding at their easternmost limit, overlapping with Middle Eastern and Asian species at the westernmost extremity of their range. This unique diversity of natural history not only extends to the birds and botany annually targeted on existing Naturetrek tours, but also to Turkey’s insects, in particular its dragonflies. The province of Mugla is especially rich in Odonata. Indeed, to date, 56 species of dragonfly and damselfly have been recorded here, including such species as Turkish Goldenring, Bladetail and the beautiful Violet Dropwing. These, and many others, plus an exciting variety of birds and butterflies, can be found in close proximity to the small town of Dalyan which is the base for this new single-centre tour, led by dragonfly expert and all-round naturalist Dave Smallshire.

First, we must fly to Dalaman on Turkey’s south-west coast, from where we will drive west to Dalyan, a small town located between Marmaris and Fethiye. We will be based here for seven nights, in a comfortable hotel on the edge of town, whilst we explore the coastal wetlands, rivers and other habitats in search of Mugla’s dragonflies, damselflies and other wildlife. There are many areas to explore, although the wetlands surrounding nearby Lake Koycegiz are particularly rewarding. The lake is connected to the sea by the River Dalyan, which flows past the town, before fanning out into the maze of reedlined waterways, channels and sand bars of the Dalyan Delta. As well as being another wonderful area for dragonflies, the delta is an important nesting ground for the rare Loggerhead Turtle, the reason for the creation of the huge Koycegiz-Dalyan Special Environmental Protection Area, the main focus of this tour.

Lake Koycegiz is fed by two rivers, together with upwellings of hot mineral-rich water from below. Stretches of the shore are lined with extensive reedbeds which support large numbers of Green-eyed Hawkers and the striking Bladetail. Within the wetter patches of nearby Oriental Sweetgum woodland we hope to find such species as Turkish Red Damsel, Eastern Willow Spreadwing, Yellow-spotted Emerald, Slender Skimmer and the attractive Violet Dropwing. The lake and its surroundings are also wonderful areas for birds and, amongst a wide variety of species, we will be looking out for Little Bittern, Spur-winged Plover, Great Reed Warbler, Red-rumped Swallow and the elusive White-throated Kingfisher.

We will also spend time exploring along the Dalyan River and within the Dalyan Delta, as well as the smaller Namnam and Yuvarlakcay Rivers. Here we should find an equally exciting range of Odonata species, including Epaulet and Small Skimmers, Turkish Clubtail and Indigo Dropwing. We will particularly be on the look-out for the Magnificent Emperor, the largest dragonfly in Europe and well deserving of its name with a body length of nearly 9 centimetres! On one particular rocky hill stream Magnificent Emperors breed alongside the Odalisque, a large powder-blue damselfly which, in appearance and behaviour, is very similar to a dragonfly. Time exploring the hills near the town of Beyobasi should also reward us with a further suite of species including Dark Pincertail and the spectacular Blue-eyed and Turkish Goldenrings. In addition to the dragonflies and birds, we will keep an eye open for Balkan Terrapins and Dice Snakes, plus the endangered Nile Soft-shelled Turtle which grows up to a metre in length!

The rocky hillsides around Dalyan are also rich in birds, butterflies and other wildlife. Long-legged Buzzards and Short-toed Eagles soar overhead, whilst Blue Rock Thrushes are common and Western Rock Nuthatch occurs too. Areas of scrub attract Rüppell’s, Olivaceous and Eastern Orphean Warblers, plus Rufous Bush Chat, Masked Shrike and Cretzschmar’s Bunting. Amongst a wide range of butterflies, we may encounter the spectacular Two-tailed Pasha, Europe’s largest species! It is impossible to visit south-west Turkey without exploring one or two of the local archaeological sites, such as the amphitheatre at Kaunos. These ancient ruins are also ideal places to look for the region’s sun-loving reptiles such as the Starred Agama which are often seen basking on the temple walls.

After a relaxing week of wildlife-watching in and around the scenic town of Dalyan it will be time to return to Dalaman Airport for our direct flight home.