Wildlife Holidays in Extremadura

Perhaps Extremadura’s most extraordinary habitat, in a Western European context, is its steppe grassland. In much of the rest of the continent, such environments have been largely destroyed or degraded by agriculture, but here they still retain much of their original splendour. Take a dawn walk on the plains in April or May, and you will be greeted by a deafening chorus of birdsong, with Calandra Lark and others erupting almost from every blade of grass. You may hear too the peculiar raspberry-like call of the Little Bustard, while their larger relative, the Great Bustard, could be displaying out in the distance. Males of these spectacular birds, amongst the heaviest capable of flight, produce a bizarre ritual to attract mates, twisting and puffing themselves up into a so-called “foam bath”; barely recognisable as a bird at all, these performances are often visible at great distance. Other sought-after species in these grasslands are gorgeous Black-belled and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Montagu’s Harrier, and Roller; this last bird, named for its acrobatic courtship routines, is declining across Europe but nests here in specially provided boxes.

No less remarkable are Extremadura’s ancient Cork Oak woodlands, known locally as dehesa. These groves of gnarled old trees, sprawled over rolling hills, hide some special and vulnerable birds, including Sardinian and Dartford Warblers, Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreeper, Crested Tit, Serin, Siskin, Hawfinch and Cirl Bunting. The rich, fluty calls of Golden Oriole often ring out from the canopy, although seeing the bird itself can be a challenge; Hoopoe and Woodchat Shrike are two other stunning inhabitants, while flocks of the regionally endemic Iberian Magpie flash their azure wings as they pass by.

Extremadura’s most productive wetland area for birding is the lovely Arrocampo Reservoir. This is a scarce habitat in a mostly dry region, and thus a visit here can produce a host of species difficult to find elsewhere. Amongst these are all nine of Europe’s breeding herons, including Little Bittern and Purple and Black-crowned Night Herons. Other birds regularly found along the shores and in the dense reedbeds include Eurasian Spoonbill, Purple Swamphen, Savi’s and Great Reed Warblers, Bearded and Penduline Tits, and the stunning Bluethroat. Marsh Harrier breeds locally, while this is also one of the best places in Spain to search for the scarce Black-winged Kite.

Providing a remarkable contrast to Extremadura’s lower-lying plains and woodlands is the spectacular Monfrague National Park, in the north of the region. This 179-square-kilometre reserve, whose name comes from the Latin for “lush mountain”, is made up of a series of dramatic rocky peaks and cliffs, along the course of the Tagus River. It is best-known for supporting some of Europe’s highest densities of birds of prey, of which the best viewing can be had at the famous Peña Falcon (“Falcon Rock”) near the park’s western edge. Here, hundreds of pairs of Griffon Vulture adorn the rock face, while Peregrine Falcon or the scarce Egyptian Vulture also frequently drift overhead. Enormous Cinereous (or Eurasian Black) Vultures are another common sight – Monfrague is home to the world’s largest colony of these declining giants. Besides the raptors, Red-billed Choughs are present, and Peña Falcon has several pairs of the uncommon Black Stork, which often provide unparalleled and intimate views. Occasionally visible here, or elsewhere in the park, are Eagle Owls, along with other iconic species such as Golden, Short-toed, Bonelli’s and Spanish Imperial Eagles. When faced with such grandeur, it’s easy to forget the park’s less majestic avian inhabitants, but these too are worthy of attention. Black Wheatear, Black Redstart, Rock Sparrow, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Crag Martin and Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin can all be found amidst Monfrague’s rugged scenery. Alpine Swifts feed in rowdy parties over the river, while this is one of the only European breeding sites for White-rumped Swift, a predominantly African species.

Although most birders come to Extremadura in spring, when migrants have arrived and the landscape is full with the raucous sights and sounds of breeding, a visit in winter can provide an equally unique and wonderful experience. Many of the region’s most desirable species, including Great and Little Bustards, come together in large flocks at this time of year, when the absence of heat haze also provides ideal viewing conditions. Pin-tailed and Black-bellied Sandgrouse can be especially visible as they feed in fallow fields, and the Arrocampo Reservoir holds one of Europe’s largest roosts of Cattle Egret – up to 1000 birds. However, Extremadura’s wintry lakes and woodlands also support an even more spectacular gathering – tens of thousands of Common Cranes travel here from their breeding grounds in Northern Europe and Scandinavia. The sight of these vast flocks pouring overhead, their trumpet calls echoing through the still air, is surely one of Europe’s greatest wildlife spectacles.

However, it is not only Extremadura’s birdlife that should appeal to wildlife enthusiasts. Although many are largely nocturnal and elusive, the region also supports some fascinating mammals. These include Wild Boar, Otter, Beech Marten and even Iberian Lynx, which is beginning to thrive once again after a series of reintroductions. Insects, too, are abundant and diverse, with perhaps the most obvious groups being dragonflies and butterflies – amongst the almost countless highlights are Splendid Cruiser, Northern Banded Groundling and Faded Pincertails (from the former group), and Scarce Swallowtail, Spanish Festoon and Two-tailed Pasha (from the latter).

Many visitors to the region will stay in Trujillo, at the heart of Extremadura. Although settlement here dates back to prehistoric times, the town’s prevailing character results from development in the 16^th century, when conquistadors returning from South America used their new-found wealth to construct lavish palaces. Most prominent amongst these was Francisco Pizarro, who was born in Trujillo and whose explorations led to the Spanish conquest of Peru. As well as being a perfect base for wildlife excursions into the surrounding countryside, Trujillo is itself well worth exploring. The castle appeared in ‘Game of Thrones’, and beneath its great walls are numerous coffee shops and wine bars, while White Storks, Lesser Kestrels and Pallid Swifts all breed locally. For those who would prefer to stay outside town, Extremadura also offers several breathtaking rural retreats, many of which are former stately homes and have grounds teeming with nature.

There are few places in Europe that can match Extremadura. Its breathtaking and varied landscapes are home to an even greater variety of wildlife, much of it colourful, charismatic and iconic. It is a rare glimpse into a world where nature abounds, and should be experienced by everyone with a love of the natural world.