Delighted guests greet a Grey Whale calf as it approaches them in Baja California (Sara Frost)

News in Brief: Cyprus, Baja California, Morocco, Mexico, Scotland, Brazil, Iceland and the Canary Islands


Go Slow in Southern Cyprus

‘This was a wonderfully relaxed two-centre week away’, writes tour leader Andy Bunten. ‘Temperatures were unusually cool this year and while this seemed to slow bird migration, it helped the plants to last longer and so we enjoyed some spectacular botany. As always, seeing the miracle of bird migration quickens the pulses. The sudden sight of six Alpine Swifts screaming overhead like small jet fighters, a Rüppell’s Warbler emerging as if by magic from a bush, its red eye and white moustache shining from within its jet-black head and a Great Spotted Cuckoo devouring hairy caterpillars in an anemone-rich field were just some of the highlights.

Our trip covered many Cypriot treasures including the astonishing archaeological site where Wheatears and Black Redstarts dipped amongst the ancient mosaics, and the botanical garden of Aphrodite’s Pool where Starred Agamas bobbed, Snake-eyed Lizards warmed themselves in the early sun and eels swam in the pool itself. We discovered fields full of bouncy-flighting Serins, we watched Montagu’s and Hen Harriers scaring up stilts, sandpipers and plovers, and we found shiningly scarlet Greater Flamingoes, pure white egrets and gorgeous Spoonbills. It was so difficult to pick the favourites – was it the astonishing array of orchids at Smigies, was it the endemic Scops Owl or was it the Blue Rock Thrush with a backdrop of a cyclamen-covered ancient tomb? Perhaps it was just the wonderful hotels, the lovely food and the great company?’

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Blue Rock Thrush

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Rüppell’s Warbler


The Island of Cyprus

‘Cyprus in the warm spring sun – what could be better? And with some spectacular migration activity too’, writes tour leader Andy Bunten. ‘Our three-location trip – Larnaca, Paphos and the Akamas Peninsula – produced some unforgettable moments. Thousands of newly arrived Common Swifts, with the occasional Alpine, dashing low over our heads, fuelling up after their exertions; Ruff in their hundreds, dainty Marsh Sandpipers, pale Spotted Redshanks and bobbing Green Sandpipers.

In the Akrotiri Marshes, Spoonbills swept the water as Marsh Harriers swept the reeds. The sudden arrival of bronzy Glossy Ibis accompanied by 10 dipping Gull-billed Terns – gone as quickly and as unexpectedly as they came – was magical. Rüppell’s Warblers popped out of bushes and Isabelline Wheatears hopped onto rocks, each grateful to have reached land. Finsch’s Wheatear, a winter visitor, mingled with Cretzschmar’s Bunting, a summer one.

In the high Troodos we found the Cyprus sub-species (will they be species soon?) of Jay, Crossbill, Short-toed Treecreeper and the dark and different Coal Tit. We also found clashing and spectacular Mouflon with new born young and combative males. In addition, the cooler spring produced spectacular shows of orchids, which are often over at this time of year. At Smigies the “Orchid Mile” was particularly spectacular, with 12 species including Ophrys elegans, Ophrys flavomarginata, Ophrys sicula, Ophrys cinereophila and Ophrys israelitica.

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Paphos, Cyprus

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Cretzschmar’s Bunting


Baja California & Sea of Cortez

‘Every client had booked on this holiday with the dream of seeing whales, and our 2-week visit to the Baja Peninsula delivered again and again’, writes tour leader Sara Frost. ‘The experience of being face to face with the Grey Whales of San Ignacio Lagoon, touching them and being immersed in their world, was unforgettable. We also enjoyed a full day watching Humpback Whales at Gorda Bank, almost daily dolphin encounters, a further incredible day surrounded by (we estimate) a whopping 15 Blue Whales and an incredible spectacle of thousands of Giant Devil Rays feeding in the waters alongside our boat.

Visiting mangroves revealed Mangrove Warblers, American White Ibis, Little Blue Herons, Yellow-crowned Night Herons, Reddish Egrets and more, whilst exploring arid, desert habitats on foot found Northern Cardinal, Hooded Oriole, Black-throated Sparrow, Osprey and the endemic Xantu’s Hummingbird. Shore walks also provided close-up views of California Sealions and Northern Elephant Seal colonies. Several days provided snorkelling opportunities, and we enjoyed marvelling at the tropical fish on view over the rocky reefs, as well as swimming with a Whale Shark, the largest fish on earth. Combine these daily wildlife experiences with the warm camaraderie of the group, our laughter over wine and beer every evening, and it’s safe to say we’ve had an incredibly memorable holiday to a very special wildlife destination, to which many of the group will likely return. But don’t take our word for it – go and see it for yourself!’

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Grey Whale calf with mother (Sara Frost)

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Sara (front) with some of the group en route to shore (Sara Frost)


Birding in Southern Morocco

‘Naturetrek’s birding trip to southern Morocco was a successful introduction to this wonderfully varied part of North Africa, from the altitude of the High Atlas down to the sun-baked dunes on the edge of the Sahara’, writes tour leader Martin Pitt. ‘We were entranced by the biodiversity of the various biomes we crossed, building a long list of endemics and near-endemic species. The weather was generally calm, sunny and warm, however there was more snow than normal in the High Atlas Mountains and despite another very dry winter, we had a day of rain and cold temperatures on the coast.

Migration was in full flow and with a southerly wind and perfect conditions, many birds were obviously shooting through. In addition, the local breeding season had started and territorial birds were everywhere. We managed to see a long and varied list of the special species, including great views of Houbara Bustard, Bald Ibis, Black-crowned Tchagra, Egyptian Nightjar, Pharaoh Eagle Owl, larks including Hoopoe, Maghreb and Temminck’s, wheatears including Maghreb and Red-rumped, Desert Sparrow and warblers including African Desert and Tristram’s. All this in wonderful surroundings and together with a few special species of mammals, butterflies, Odonata and plants.’

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Bald Ibis (Chris Griffin)

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Temminck's Lark (Chris Griffin)


Mexico's Monarchs, Humpbacks & Birds

‘This tour set out to show some of the varied history and landscapes of this wonderful country and to combine the natural wonder of overwintering Monarchs in the mountains of Michoacán state, with the breeding site of the Humpback Whale and some of the endemic birds found on the Pacific coast around San Blas’, writes tour leader Martin Pitt.

‘We started with the pre-Aztec civilisation and the spectacular “stepped” pyramids of Teotihuacán, before heading over 10,000 ft into the fir and pine forests to the west of Mexico City to experience the overwintering Monarchs in their millions. Here, we also found the special Salamander and a few of the unique birds of this protected biosphere reserve. We then flew west to the Pacific coast, taking two boat trips into the warm coastal waters, finding lots of Humpback Whales and other wildlife including the vulnerable Olive Ridley Turtle. We finished the trip searching the mixed habitats around the old colonial town of San Blas, looking for wintering North American migrants and local endemic birds in this well-known hotspot.

Overall, we identified 34 species of butterfly, 203 species of birds and 26 species of mammal, including a bewildering 20 species of bats, plus notable amphibians and reptiles. We came home with a wealth of memories – who can forget trees dripping with butterflies, forests lit by the luminous Red Warblers, seas full of whales, dolphins and turtles, and everywhere the shriek of parrots and the vibrant colours of tropical birds and butterflies?’

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Humpback Whale

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Monarch Butterflies


Mull in Winter

‘A late winter trip to Mull is a treat’, writes tour leader Keith Buchanan. ‘The ever-changing light weaves a special magic – never the same for more than five minutes – as a palette of delicate greys are interspersed with biblical bursts of intense sunshine and, of course, rain! The added advantage of this time of year is the lack of other tourists, so there is no problem stopping even on single-track roads whenever something interesting is found.

Staying at an elegant hotel with breathtaking views over Tobermory Bay, every day brought something different. We found Otter on three of our days and watched them feed restlessly among the seaweed-festooned rocks. Their work rate always admirable, their strike rate was also high, with frequent emergence onto a convenient rock to consume a fish or crab. On one of these occasions, no fewer than four White-tailed Eagles hung in the strong wind over the loch – what a bonanza!

Golden Eagles, shyer and more elusive than their larger cousins, also put in an appearance on three occasions, Mull having one of the highest densities of these birds in Europe. On top of all this, we then had the serene beauty of Iona, separated from Mull by the Sound of Iona, dotted with overwintering Great Northern Divers, and framed by the Treshnish Isles. All in all, a glorious week!’

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River Otter (Keith Buchanan)

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White-tailed Eagle


The Best of Brazil's Atlantic Rainforest

‘Our last “The Best of Brazil's Atlantic Rainforest” tour was back at the end of January 2020, just prior to the arrival of Covid’, writes tour leader Andy Foster. ‘To say it felt great to be returning to Itororo and Regua Lodges after such a long absence would be a serious understatement! What a wonderful occasion! We had an incredible week with some terrific sightings, with perhaps the most memorable being a male Large-tailed Antshrike, posing beautifully in front of the group for at least 30 seconds, and the fantastic Giant Snipe which glided down and sat just 15 metres in front of us, giving spectacular views.

The tanagers didn't disappoint either, with amazing views of Green-headed, Brassy-breasted, Magpie, Gilt-edged, Rufous-headed, Flame-crested, Yellow-backed and White-bellied Tanagers, all putting on a great show! The Saffron Toucanet on the first afternoon, flying in and perching in a tree above the lodge and the small family party of Spot-billed Toucanets that sat above us making the most peculiar calls whilst doing so are also special memories! The accommodation and food were also a real highlight and staying in just two lodges only an hour and a half apart makes for a more relaxing pace, being able to unpack and enjoy the comfort of the lodges as well as over 280 species of birds!’

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Saffron Toucanet


Iceland – Northern Lights & Winter Wildlife

'A short 5-day trip to the unique island of Iceland provided us all with an opportunity to see this land of ice and steam at its most beautiful', writes tour leader Neil McMahon 'Drifts of clean white snow, dramatic mountains, distant glaciers, inert (only just!) volcanoes, hot springs and spectacular waterfalls provided an almost surreal backdrop to our journey around parts of the south and west. The hardy Icelandic horses could be seen wherever we went, stoic animals able to put up with the extremes of weather and temperature. Mobile flocks of Snow Buntings with their beautiful clear calls and ginger and white plumage defied the impossible conditions for small birds. The harbours were full of white-winged gulls, big Glaucous Gulls sharing the ice and rocks with their smaller Iceland cousins and rafts of shellfish-eating Eider ducks could be seen almost wherever we went along the coasts. The birds may have been few and far between but we managed several views of Merlin, a pair of stately Gyr Falcons and of course the 'flying door' White-tailed Eagles.

The Northern Lights only provided a weak showing but the extremes of weather and the hues and contrast against the black volcanic escarpments and lava fields more than made up for this. Our whale-watching expedition proved to be particularly successful with close views of a pod of Orca (Killer Whales) and no less than three Humpback Whales at close range! This short trip was centred around two geo-thermally warmed hotels with comfortable rooms and good food and of course the legendary Icelandic hospitality.'

'On our second departure of this holiday to Iceland, snow, hail, rain and powerful winds were all out-manoeuvred by the often warm and very clear sunshine as we navigated around the “Golden Circle” route and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Blue skies and clean white clouds one minute, heavy snow showers the next and then back again ensured there was never a dull moment! We only experienced a weak and rather brief showing of the Northern Lights as the cloud cover was just too dense. Instead, the daytime weather, which included many particularly intense rainbows portrayed against the canvas of white mountains, grey seas and mossy lava fields, provided plenty of excitement and we were particularly lucky with our wildlife sightings. Harlequins and Barrow's Goldeneye were the top ducks but we also enjoyed multiple viewings of adult and immature White-tailed Eagles, Common and Grey Seals, displaying and noisy Ravens and masses of seabirds!

The Gullfoss Waterfall was particularly dramatic with large volumes of icy water gushing over both levels and the Strokkur Geyser was on form with dramatic spurts of hot water and steam reaching over 50 foot in height every few minutes. Confiding Black Guillemots, flocks of Purple Sandpipers and small groups of Whooper Swans added detail to the dramatic snowscapes, and our grand finale was a whale-watching tour which brought us up close and personal to multiple pods of Orca (Killer Whales) and a single Humpback Whale! And each evening we looked forward to our warm and comfortable hotels and traditional Icelandic dishes which of course included Arctic Char and Icelandic Cod!'

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Gyr Falcon (Neil McMahon)

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Black Guillemot (Neil McMahon)

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Orca (Neil McMahon)


Go Slow in Fuerteventura

‘What a week! Leaving aside the slightly windy weather at the beginning of our tour, we largely had sunshine each day and it got progressively warmer throughout the week’, writes tour leader Brian Small. ‘We certainly enjoyed ourselves, gaining some excellent views of all the key Fuerteventuran specialities.

High on the list of most-wanted species were Houbara Bustard, Cream-coloured Courser, Canary Islands Chat, Black-bellied Sandgrouse and Plain Swift, as well as Berthelot’s Pipit, Trumpeter Finch, Atlantic Canary and African Blue Tit. It is safe to say we saw these brilliantly well, in some cases as good as it can get: ace views of Houbara Bustard, including displaying males on our final evening; Canary Islands Chat showed brilliantly especially at Los Molinos, as did the sublime Cream-coloured Coursers that came close. However, perhaps the most unexpected sighting was of the Red-billed Tropicbird that swept in off the sea, circled for two minutes then headed back out, and may well ultimately be remembered as the bird of the trip.

Picnic lunches en plein air and very good evening meals were a delight and we were spoilt by the ever-attentive Laura and fine cooking by Raoul. The wine was much enjoyed, too…’

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Houbara Bustard (Brian Small)

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Red-billed Tropicbird (Brian Small)