The Island of Cyprus

Cyprus is a rugged, sun-drenched isle languishing at the crossroads of Africa, Asia and Europe. In early spring, while western Europe endures late winter gloom, the eastern Mediterranean already sparkles beneath clear blue skies and warm sunshine, its birdlife augmented by the arrival of summer visitors and northbound migrants. Cyprus’s hillsides now show the vivacity of spring, cloaked by a veneer of Crown Daisies, Turban Buttercups, asphodels and marigolds, and encompassed by glittering turquoise waters and sun-bleached rocks. Some of Cyprus’s endemic plants flower at this time and, depending on the season, we might see Yellow Cyprus Sun-rose (Helianthemum obtusifolium) and Threeleaved Gladiolus (Gladiolus triphyllus). This is the peak flowering time for Pyramidal and Bee Orchids, which can be found in our hotel’s gardens; it is also the most colourful season in the island’s calendar and a period when mild temperatures allow its rich natural history to be enjoyed to the full!

We begin our holiday with two nights on the south-east coast of Cyprus, followed by three nights at Paphos and two nights at Polis, on the west coast. From our varied locations we will explore the cliff-tops, headlands, coastal maquis and the two salt lakes in search of a wide variety of birds, plants and other wildlife, breaking each day for lunch. There will also be plenty of opportunities to sample a full range of Cypriot cuisine each evening in our hotels, and in one of the island’s delightful tavernas during our stay in Paphos.

Our visit is timed to coincide with the migration of thousands of birds flying northwards to their breeding grounds across a Cypriot landscape rejuvenated by winter rains. Over 200 species have been recorded, and exotic Hoopoes, Cranes, Purple Herons and Glossy Ibises loiter at the coastal wetlands near Akrotiri. An array of eastern warblers, such as Rüppell’s, Subalpine and Olivaceous, descend to mingle with the endemic Cyprus Warbler, all sporting their immaculate breeding plumages.

All of our hotels lie close to coastal ‘migrant traps’, where tired migrants make landfall after their long crossing of the Mediterranean. The headland at Paphos, for example, has become famous amongst birdwatchers for the sheer variety of migrants that often rests there first thing in the morning, while the Akamas Peninsula near Polis can be equally rewarding at times. In addition to the species mentioned, we should keep our eyes open for Collared Flycatcher, Short-toed Lark, Wryneck, Woodchat Shrike and Cretzschmar’s Bunting.

The Cypriot mountains host a range of local races, such as those of the Coal Tit, Jay and Crossbill. We will make a special excursion from Paphos to see these, along with some of the early alpines that start flowering on the mountain at this time. On the fringes of the pine-clad mountains we will explore the home of the Masked Shrike, which obligingly perches in the open as it scours the ground for small lizards and robust beetles. The maquis is flushed with delicate pink, white and purple-flowered rock roses, a fusion of hues reminiscent of an impressionist’s canvas. Scattered beneath the shrubs lies a wealth of orchids. A Cypriot spring truly presents a feast of varied and exciting encounters for the naturalist.

Our leisurely ambles along goat tracks and eroded gullies will bring fulfilment to even the most discerning of naturalists, and an irresistible attraction of a holiday here is the immediacy and ease with which a diversity of wildlife can be enjoyed. At the same coastal salt lake, mountain forest or ravine in the foothills, we will discover ample to satiate the ornithologist, botanist, herpetologist and entomologist. There is time on our unhurried rambles for the photographer to ponder composition and for the watercolour artist to seize the advantages of wonderful lighting and clear air. Our itinerary offers the expectation of a holiday of rich contrasts; forests, mountains, creeks and saltpans all sit within striking distance of our hotels, and we will enjoy these habitats to the full.

For those wishing to enjoy the rich cultural heritage of this historic island, Cyprus reveals much evidence of early settlement and we strongly recommend extending your holiday. Sites such as ancient Paphos boast a series of fine mosaics which even the keenest birdwatcher will find an enthralling diversion from the exciting migrants which adorn the ornate stonework.