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News in Brief: USA, Madagascar, France, UK, Oman, Sri Lanka & India
September 2024
‘We began our tour on the north-eastern seaboard of the US, staying at Tenants Harbor on the St. George Peninsula’, writes tour leader Adrian Langdon. ‘Spending a day on Monhegan Island, we enjoyed a few passage migrants and a handful of Bald Eagles. However, the highlight was undoubtedly the Monarch butterflies. We had over a dozen all around us as they fed on nectar to aid their long migration south to Mexico.
We moved north to Acadia National Park, via birding stops including Weskeag Marsh, and settled in at our hotel in Bar Harbor. The next morning, we embarked on a whale-watching catamaran north towards the Bay of Fundy in Canadian waters. En route we saw Harbour Porpoise, White-sided Dolphin and Common Dolphin but on arrival some 60 miles north of Bar Harbor we encountered two Northern Right Whales, a species that is supposed to only number approximately 350 left in the world’s oceans.
We had outstanding views, and not to be outdone, three Fin Whales also put on a show for us. Fin Whales are second in size only to Blue Whales, the largest living animal on the planet. We can also add in between 12 and 15 Humpback Whales which were all around our boat, blowing and diving to display their amazing tail flukes. I spend a lot of time at sea on wildlife surveys but I’d never encountered such a display of these marine giants!
We went on to visit Cadillac Mountain in the national park, before moving inland to Bethel on the Maine-New Hampshire border. We then took in a few days of sightseeing and birdwatching around the lakes and mountains before heading across the state line into the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The autumn colours were really starting to arrive here and the planning by Naturetrek was spot on!
We drove to the top of Mount Washington, having stunning views looking down on the clouds in bright sunshine, and toured along the scenic highways to Crawford Notch State Park, Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge and the Kancamagus highway, visiting numerous covered bridges, lakes and waterfalls.
Towards the end of our tour, we had a 2-hour trip out onto Squam Lake on a slow pontoon boat that took us very close to Loons and Bald Eagles and we were also treated to an insight into the filming of “On Golden Pond” featuring Henry and Jane Fonda and Katherine Hepburn, which was filmed at this very place. Our final day took in a visit to Walden Pond, home of the revered Henry David Thoreau, the famous naturalist and transcendentalist.’
October 2024
Naturetrek’s recent “Best of Madagascar” tour was a spectacular success, recording a dizzying variety of endemic mammals, birds, reptiles and more’, writes tour leader Ben Chapple. ‘Beginning in the rainforest-clad hills of Ranomafana, we revelled in a series of bizarre creatures: Giraffe-necked Weevils, Satanic Leaf-tailed Geckos, Milne-Edwards’s Sifakas and a stunningly showy Scaly Ground Roller. Crossing Madagascar’s Central Highlands, we enjoyed wonderful interactions with Ring-tailed Lemurs at Anja, before encountering three species of owl in the rugged canyons of Isalo. We then ventured into the far south-west and the otherworldly spiny forest, where Subdesert Mesite, Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec, and Antimena Chameleon were all seen amongst the inhospitable mass of thorns.
Next were the sprawling deciduous woodlands of Ankarafantsika, in Madagascar’s north-west. The park’s central lake – Ravelobe – had a pair of critically endangered Madagascar Fish Eagles, while its tree-lined shores gave us Coquerel’s Sifaka, Western Woolly Lemur, Schlegel’s Asity and Van Dam’s Vanga, the rarest member of this iconic Malagasy bird family. Following Ankarafantsika was Berenty, where we admired the iconic “dancing” Verreaux’s Sifakas, alongside Madagascar Flying Fox, Madagascar Spider Tortoise and gigantic Dumeril’s Ground Boas.
Last was Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, where we sat beneath families of Indri and Diademed Sifaka, and combed the bark of old-growth trees for Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko. Shy Red-fronted Couas stalked the undergrowth, while an electric-yellow-and-black Lowland Streaked Tenrec even made an appearance in our hotel garden. After three weeks of non-stop wonders, our final night walk provided one last, astonishing surprise: a Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur! Resembling a goblin-fingered, bug-eyed little alien, this species was once thought to be extinct. Despite its rediscovery, it remains arguably the most challenging of all lemurs to see in the wild; the magical few minutes we spent with it were a fitting end to a phenomenal tour.’
December 2024
‘Our 5-day tour was centred in the historic town of Arles, which provided a blend of culture in addition to the anticipated wildlife on offer’, writes tour leader Neil McMahon. ‘At Marais du Vigueirat, an ideal introduction to Camargue birds, we encountered Marsh and Hen Harriers, Merlin, Water Pipits, an unseasonal Whiskered Tern, many Kingfishers and the first of those fabulous whiskery Coypus! The restaurant we used each evening provided traditional local cuisine and was very close to our hotel, next to the Roman Amphitheatre.
At Les Baux-de-Provence, a stunning village and fortress sitting atop a limestone escarpment, our keen group soon found Black Redstart, Crested Tit, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin and an Alpine Accentor, all leading up to the discovery and appreciation of a Wallcreeper towards the top of the limestone cliff, which everyone saw. Further exploration of Les Baux provided close views of Black Redstart and Sardinian Warbler and stunning views from the citadel.
In the Camargue National Park we enjoyed Common Cranes, White and Black Storks, herons, Glossy Ibis and of course the “pink army” of Greater Flamingoes. Small birds included many Firecrests, a couple of Penduline Tits, brief views of two Bluethroats, Zitting Cisticolas and wintering warblers and finches. There were also plenty of examples of the Camargue white horses and black bulls to admire.
At the impressive Roman aqueduct at Pont du Gard, we watched another Wallcreeper at length in afternoon sunshine – just stunning! A night drive on our last evening succeeded in obtaining close views of Short-eared Owl and Wild Boar, while on our last day we bumped into a flock of Little Bustards and a Bonelli's Eagle before we reluctantly returned to Marseille and then home!'
November 2024
‘Geographically central in the UK, Dumfries and Galloway is home to the northernmost of southern species and the southernmost of northern species of a whole range of biodiversity, including several birds’, writes Chris Rollie. ‘The Solway Firth and Loch Ryan are renowned for their wintering waterfowl, while the farmland and low-lying moorland attract a range of raptors in winter, including Hen Harriers.
The week got off to a great start with a smouldering sunset and distant telescope views of a pair of pre-roosting Golden Eagles. In addition to very close views of Svalbard Barnacle Geese, RSPB Mersehead Reserve delivered Pintail, Wigeon, Teal, Shoveler, Gadwall, Curlew, Lapwing and Tree Sparrow. The Whooper Swan feed at WWT Caerlaverock was a close-up treat, followed by visits to hides and rare close views of two foraging Water Rails. Good views of elusive Greenland White-fronted Geese were enjoyed on RSPB’s Ken-Dee Marshes Reserve, together with increasingly rare Willow Tit, which was also seen briefly at NTS Threave Wetlands, as were over 600 Pink-footed Geese. Around 120 Red Kites put on a breathtaking diving spectacle as they swooped for food at Bellymack Hill Red Kite feeding station.
As ever, Loch Ryan was a delight, with superb close views of Pale-bellied Brent Geese, Wigeon, Greater Scaup, Slavonian and Great Crested Grebes, Common Scoter, Black Guillemot, Red-breasted Merganser, Red-throated Diver, Common Eider and various waders all close inshore. Good, if more distant, views were had of Goldeneye, Shag, Great Northern Diver, two Velvet Scoters and five male Long-tailed Ducks. We ended the day with a flock of around 50 Whooper Swans and a similar number of Greenland Whitefronts, followed by a dusk spectacle of two adult male Hen Harriers and a Marsh Harrier flying to roost.
The week concluded with a lovely walk through an oak woodland SSSI, with good views of Jays and snatches of calling Green Woodpecker, topped off with a male Goldeneye and our first Dabchicks on a nearby loch. Comfortable accommodation, superb cuisine and hospitality were all enjoyed at the award-winning Clachan Inn, and combined with stunning birdlife and scenery, together with fascinating historical attractions, delivered a truly memorable few days and a total of 108 bird species, a record for this tour.’
December 2024
‘Our recently returned tour to Oman was a great success’, writes tour leader Andy Smith. ‘With our trusted local team, we traversed the country from Muscat in the north to Salalah in the south via the vastness of the Empty Quarter. Exploring deserts, mountains, wetlands and the beautiful wooded slopes of the Dhofar escarpment, we experienced some truly spectacular scenery and encountered an exciting range of birds and other wildlife.
We saw over 200 species of birds in all, including such sought-after regional specialities as Grey Hypocolius, Golden-winged Grosbeak, Arabian and Hume’s Wheatears, Arabian Partridge, Yemen Serin and Arabian Spotted Eagle Owl. In the desert we enjoyed great views of Spotted, Chestnut-bellied and Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, Cream-coloured Coursers, Desert Warblers, Hoopoe Larks and Desert Wheatears, whilst on the wetlands we encountered 35 species of waders and 10 species of terns, with the former including both Greater and Tibetan Sand-plovers, Terek Sandpipers and the amazing Crab Plover.
In the woodlands of Dhofar, we found Blackstarts, Arabian Warblers, Arabian Sunbirds, African Paradise Flycatchers, Grey-headed Kingfishers and a Diderik Cuckoo, whilst raptors included Pallid Harrier, Crested Honey Buzzard, Barbary Falcon and five species of eagles topped by the stunning Verreaux’s. A couple of pelagic trips brought further variety with Persian and Flesh-footed Shearwaters, Jouanin’s Petrels, Red-billed Tropicbirds and hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes.
There were colourful butterflies too, such as African Monarchs and Blue Pansies, and some great reptiles including various geckos and agamas, a stunning Arabian Chameleon and some wonderful Green Turtles. Indeed, on one memorable moonlit evening we visited a Green Turtle nesting beach and were able to watch one female covering her eggs whilst another hauled herself up the beach to begin her excavations. Fantastic!
All this, plus good food and accommodation, wall-to-wall sunshine, the rich Omani culture and great company made for a brilliant trip. Oman never disappoints; I very much look forward to my next visit!’
December 2024
‘Based at the Grand Hotel on Torquay’s seafront, the tour covered South Devon’s best bird and wildlife sites, including Slapton, Torbay, Exe Estuary, East Devon Commons and Haldon Forest’, write leaders Mike Langman and Tom Brereton. ‘Devon's special Cirl Buntings were found in Torbay and Firecrests were seen at most sites visited.
Highlights in the South Hams included Ring-necked Duck, Slavonian Grebe, Red-throated Diver, Great White Egret and Marsh Harrier. In Torbay highlights included Common Dolphin, Harbour Porpoise, 30+ Grey Seals, Black Redstart, Purple Sandpiper, Great Northern Diver, Guillemot, Gannet and Fulmar. At Bowling Green Marsh and the Exe Estuary fantastic numbers of waterfowl, including Long-billed Dowitcher, Avocet, Spotted Redshank, Ruff, Red-breasted Merganser, Marsh Harrier and Greater Scaup were enjoyed. On Aylesbeare Common, several Dartford Warblers were seen and in Haldon Forest plenty of Siskins at a busy feeding station. The strangest find was the fresh remains of a Great Shearwater on Brixham Breakwater!’
‘This was another memorable trip on the mighty Brahmaputra River’, writes tour leader Sujan Chatterjee. ‘Hoolock Gibbons and Capped Langurs showed very well for all of us, and a brief sighting of Stump-tailed Macaque was a bonus. The Majuli Island visit was as charming as ever; the visit to the colourful Uloni weekly market was very interesting; Kaziranga was beautiful and green. The monsoon had receded, leaving behind vast tracts of water. The vast number of Rhinos, close to the road, gave great photo opportunities, together with Water Buffaloes, Elephants, Swamp Deer and Spot-billed Pelicans which were all over the lakes. The Pallas's and Grey-headed Fish Eagles had started their courtship rituals and we saw Oriental Pied Hornbills in small family groups, the young chicks still following the mothers around. Otters were seen competing for food with the Fish Eagles. We even saw Elephants at night in a tea garden!’
‘This was another hugely successful tour with 189 different species of birds and 21 different mammals including 19 individual Tigers, three Leopards, and two Sloth Bear sightings’, writes tour leader Yusuf Rizvi. ‘The outstanding highlight, however, was an afternoon drive in Kanha Zone which was nothing short of breathtaking. As we traversed the vast meadows, alive with deer and peacocks, we learnt that a Tiger had been spotted earlier in the day. We scanned the open terrain, but there was no sign. Undeterred, we decided to explore other areas. Soon, our patience was rewarded with a rare and incredible sighting—a Tigress and her sub-adult cub walking along a track. We were the only two vehicles in the area, and our skilfully positioned jeep ensured everyone had a chance to capture the perfect shot. For nearly 15 minutes, we followed the duo as they moved gracefully through the forest, their presence both powerful and serene. Eventually, they crossed the road and disappeared into the thick underbrush. The moment was magical — an unforgettable encounter with one of nature's most elusive creatures.’
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Rajasthan – Wildlife & History
‘Our 17-day to northern India and the Himalayan Foothills offered an unforgettable blend of wildlife, landscape and culture’, writes tour leader Harish Sharma. ‘We recorded over 316 bird species, 16 mammal species, eight reptile species, and numerous butterflies and dragonflies. Highlights included rare and sought-after species like the Siberian Rubythroat, Himalayan Rubythroat, Ibisbill, Wallcreeper, Tawny Fish Owl, Collared Falconet, Himalayan Woodpecker and Great Hornbill. Other notable sightings included the Black-bellied Tern, Indian Spotted Eagle, Altai Accentor, Himalayan Griffon, Eurasian Wryneck, Bengal Bush Lark, Long-billed Pipit, Hen Harrier, Lesser Coucal and Orange-breasted Green Pigeon. Mammal highlights featured a Royal Bengal Tiger and Asian Elephants and excellent views of Marsh Crocodiles and Gharials in the Chambal River.’
The Wildlife of Satpura – Best of Central India
‘The tour was a great success with nine individual Tigers, five Sloth Bears, one Leopard and 140+ different species of birds across both national parks’, writes tour leader Omkar Shelke. ‘A particular highlight was our second safari into the park on our second morning. We crossed the beautiful, misty Denwa River by boat and spotted fresh tiger pugmarks. We followed the pugmarks all the way to the end of the safari tourism area and managed to track down the dominant male Tiger. With very few jeeps around, it majestically crossed the road right in front of us. After breakfast at the Lagda viewpoint, we got lucky with an exclusive sighting of a female Tigress with no alarm calls or pugmarks. The young Tigress crossed in front of us and went in the direction of the male we had seen earlier. We also saw the beautiful mascot of Satpura in its bright winter coat, the Malabar Giant Squirrel. During the evening safari, having heard that the Tigers had left the tourism area, we decided instead to look for Sloth Bears. Luck was on our side as we had an excellent sighting of two Sloth Bears at the very end of our safari, together with plenty of other wildlife including Gaur, Nilgai and Sambar Deer.’
‘Our 10-day birdwatching adventure across Sri Lanka was an extraordinary experience, immersing us in the vibrant, bird-rich ecosystems that make this country a premier destination for birders’, writes tour leader Dhanushka Perera. ‘From the rainforests of Kitulgala to the mist-laden highlands of Horton Plains and the lush, world-renowned Sinharaja Forest, each day presented us with breathtaking encounters and close-up views of some of the island’s most elusive species, often close enough for stunning photography. Highlights included witnessing the rare Serendib Scops Owl, the elusive Sri Lanka Bay Owl, and the splendid Green-billed Coucal, along with 33 of Sri Lanka’s 34 endemic birds.’
Sri Lanka – Wildlife & History
‘Our journey began with visits to Sri Lanka's iconic historical landmarks, offering a glimpse into the island’s rich cultural and architectural heritage’, writes tour leader Gayomini Panagoda. ‘At the ancient city of Anuradhapura, we explored the magnificent ruins of temples, monasteries, and advanced irrigation systems that stand as testaments to the ingenuity of ancient Sri Lankan civilisation. Our mornings were filled with birdwatching walks and forest treks, yielding memorable sightings of Sri Lanka’s endemic avifauna. Highlights included the elusive Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush, the Sri Lanka Scaly Thrush, and the Serendib Scops Owl, alongside the rare migrant Daurian Starling. Among owls, we enjoyed exceptional views of the Brown Wood Owl, Indian Scops Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, and Eastern Barn Owl. A visit to Hakgala Botanical Gardens rewarded us with sightings of the Dull Blue Flycatcher, Indian Blue Robin, and Kashmir Flycatcher. Encounters with Leopards at Lunugamwehera and Yala National Parks were thrilling, and numerous Elephants—including a majestic tusker—added to our list of memorable mammal sightings. Primates were a regular feature, and nocturnal excursions revealed rare creatures like the Grey Slender Loris, Jungle Cat, Rusty-spotted Cat, Golden Jackal, and Common Palm Civet.’
Sri Lanka – Blue Whales & Leopards
‘The adventure kicked off with a thrilling whale-watching expedition at dawn, where the group was treated to an awe-inspiring display by a large pod of Spinner Dolphins, gracefully circling the boat’, writes tour leader Dhanushka Perera. ‘The excitement escalated when a magnificent Fin Whale, the second-largest mammal on Earth, appeared close to the boat, leaving everyone mesmerised. Our tour continued in this vein, with a perfect blend of birdwatching, unforgettable marine encounters, nature and culture. At the Kirala Kele Sanctuary we spotted Bengal Monitor, Black-hooded Oriole, Crimson-fronted Barbet, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Sri Lanka Swallow, and the elusive Lesser Whistling Duck. We visited Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and we learnt about local conservation efforts at a turtle hatchery. Later in the tour, we made our way to Yala National Park, stopping at Bundala National Park to enjoy a rich birdwatching experience. Species like the Yellow Bittern, Purple Heron, and Yellow-wattled Lapwing appeared, along with sightings of the Black-naped Hare.’
