Our Personal Wildlife Highlights of 2023

Our expert staff in the office have been reflecting on their wildlife highlights of 2023 – from searching for Snow Leopards in the mountains of Mongolia and watching Jaguars in the wetlands of Brazil's Pantanal, to birding in Morocco and having dinner with a Honey Badger in Botswana! 2023 was a busy year for us all and we look forward to sharing more wonderful wildlife adventures with you in 2024.

Wildlife-wise a family holiday to Tuscany was memorable for a family party of Golden Orioles feasting on fruit outside our agriturismo in the early morning, waking us up with their delightful liquid, fluting song. I also loved being back in the wide-open plains of Extremadura for the first time in a few years, re-visiting Monfrague and enjoying the bustards and raptors of this renowned birding hotspot.

My work highlight of the year however was lifting the trophy for the 'Best Travel Company for Wildlife & Nature Holidays' for the fourth consecutive time at the British Travel Awards – a very proud moment at Naturetrek for all of our staff after such a busy and challenging 2022/3. Thank you so much for your support and a very Happy New Year and best wishes for 2024 to all!

Choosing just one wildlife highlight for 2023 has been a challenge. How can I not write about three Polar Bears at a kill, in the pack ice, only metres away, surrounded by Ivory Gulls!? However, the overall highlight I am going to choose took place high in the remote Altai Mountains of western Mongolia as we searched for Asia’s ‘Grey Ghost’ – the Snow Leopard.

Staying in a comfortable ger camp 2,000 metres up in the rugged Altai Mountains, the time came to venture to the high tops to start scanning for Snow Leopard. There is no need for long treks in Mongolia; we loaded up the Toyota Land Cruisers with all the day’s supplies and drove to our spectacular vantage point at 3,050 metres, looking out towards the craggy peaks and the valleys below. With everyone sat comfortably, our scopes began to sweep back and forth across this vast landscape. We found Altai Snowcock and Siberian Ibex, whilst alarm-calling Tarbagan Marmot led us to a Red Fox. Lammergeiers and Steppe Eagles drifted overhead with the ever-present Black Kites, and a Güldenstädt's Redstart was picked out on the mountainside.

There was always something to enjoy, but the ‘Grey Ghost’ remained hidden. The finding of a sheep kill – with a Steppe Eagle on top – raised hopes, but it wasn’t until shortly before dinner that the long-awaited breakthrough was made by Bina, our fabulous local guide, who caught the briefest of feline movements in the mountains! The adrenaline started flowing as everyone’s scopes desperately worked the area he described, but once again to no avail. After a quick dinner (we had brought the chefs out with us), it was back to scanning and, finally, as the light was starting to fade, the moment we had all been hoping for arrived. Group member, Brian, found himself scoping a wonderful adult Snow Leopard and the calm, matter-of-fact way he said ‘I’ve got a Snow Leopard’ will remain etched in my mind forever! We were soon all watching the cat, which was sitting down, licking its paws and staring across the valley in our direction. Standing up, it then walked across the mountainside, showing its characteristic long, thick tail and relaxed, but assured, gait. What a moment!

Naturally, we were back in the mountains the following day, where we ended our stay in the Altai on an unforgettable high. After a fabulous sighting of two Wolves, tour member, James, got a glimpse of an adult Snow Leopard, which then allowed our trackers to find no less than three young Snow Leopards at a den site! We could hardly believe our luck and we all watched, spellbound, as the cubs played together, filling our scopes until darkness fell once more. Mongolia is a very special place, with incredible scenery, spectacular wildlife, and such friendly, engaging people. I certainly can’t wait to return!

Bobbing about in the warm tropical sea off the Indonesian island of Sumbawa, I hooted a squeal of delight through my snorkel as a 7-metre Whale Shark emerged from the inky blue depths beneath me. The muscular body of this titanic giant rose up alongside my group, its spotty flanks dappled pale turquoise in the morning light.

It was 7am, and I was guiding our wonderful 10-day cruise from Bali to Komodo with 15 clients. We had stopped in Teluk Saleh – a huge bay in north-west Sumbawa where Whale Sharks are known to occasionally feed on the abundant plankton – and had hopped in the water for a pre-breakfast snorkel hoping to see one. We had only been in the water for 30 seconds before the enormous shark – the largest species of fish in the world – calmy swam around us as it fed, hoovering up plankton from the surface.

Another huge, pale shape emerged from the depths – there was a second one! It rose up to join the feeding, much to our delight. We were mesmerised, watching the two sharks at the surface. Then another shape appeared: it was the shadow of a huge tail moving in the depths. A third shark? Hang on, what was that behind us? A fourth?! And what was that to the left?

‘Crikey, there are six!’ I shouted. We spun round in the water, not knowing where to look, as we were surrounded by a group of six huge Whale Sharks. Talk about exceeding expectations! There were whoops and cheers from some (tour leader not excluded) but, certainly for the first few minutes, most of the group were too speechless to say anything, and just hung in the water watching these gentle giants casually feeding around us. Their enormous mouths opened to engulf gallons of plankton-filled water before sinking slowly to the depths again to digest momentarily before their next round. One even swam up towards me and, just as it passed me, did an enormous poo – a bright red cloud of digested krill engulfed me and my snorkel. Pooed on by a Whale Shark, what a life tick! Elated after an hour of whale-watching, we reluctantly got out of the water for breakfast, over which we could not stop talking about the astonishing experience we had just had.   

Fortunately, we had not ‘peaked too soon’, and the rest of the trip was fantastic, too: on a subsequent morning snorkel we were joined by several Manta Rays, and cruising each day on our 5-star motor yacht allowed us to enjoy a good variety of cetaceans at sea, including Melon-headed Whales and Spinner, Spotted, Fraser’s and Rough-toothed Dolphins. Walks on land yielded plenty of birds including the resplendent Green Junglefowl, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Olive-backed Sunbird, Blue-tailed Bee Eater, Collared Kingfisher, Black-naped Oriole, a variety of drongos, the critically endangered Yellow-crested Cockatoo, and much more! Of course, the land highlight for many was coming face-to-face with the formidable Komodo Dragons, of which we saw several on the islands of Komodo and Rinca. Those joining the extension to Bali Barat National Park enjoyed an additional two full days of birding, the highlight being the critically endangered Bali Myna, plus Javan Banded Pitta, barbets, flowerpeckers, kingfishers and a huge amount more, all rounded off by relaxing on beautiful white sandy beaches with a coconut! However, as I rounded off our final evening checklist with my group over dinner, there was no doubt that swimming in a Whale Shark ‘soup’ was the highlight of the trip – if not of all my visits to Indonesia. It was definitely the highlight of my year (even if I did get pooed on!).

Wearing a pair of muddy wellington boots and with a cup of steaming coffee in one hand, our friendly bush pilot climbed into the cockpit of our small 4-seater Cessna aircraft and beckoned us to follow. A few minutes later, we were airborne and heading out over Cook Inlet towards the distant mountains and endless wilderness of Lake Clark National Park. It was late June and I was on my way to a new, small, Grizzly Bear watching lodge at Chinitna Bay on the edge of the reserve, home to one of the largest concentrations of Grizzlies in all of Alaska!

Our flight took around 30 minutes and ended with a spectacular landing on a gravel beach. This was true wilderness – a 360-degree panorama of the natural world, unspoilt by the hand of humankind. Wispy tendrils of mist clung to the forested hillsides, and low cloud obscured the higher snowy peaks. A Bald Eagle drifted overhead, and three Trumpeter Swans flew past. A flat expanse of intertidal sedge opened out between the landing strip and the distant cabins, and it was these extensive sedge beds that attracted the bears each spring and summer. Within seconds of setting foot on the beach I had spotted my first Grizzly Bears: a mother with two small cubs quietly feeding out on the marshes, unconcerned by our noisy arrival. A quick scan of the sedge beds revealed another half a dozen bears dotted between us and the forest edge. But there was no time to linger, and we climbed into our transport for the short ‘off-road’ journey to the lodge.

My home for the next four nights looked out over the sedge beds and there was rarely a daylight moment when at least one Grizzy Bear was not in view. The lodge itself was still under construction, but they hope to finish it by the start of the bear-viewing season in June 2024. Although I was unable to see the lodge in all its future glory, I was able to immerse myself in the surroundings and enjoy some of the best bear viewing on the planet. Because there are no hides or viewing platforms here, all of our bear watching was done on foot, which certainly added to the excitement of the stay! Accompanied by our bear guides, we headed out each morning and afternoon to quietly watch these impressive mammals going about their business in this most spectacular of settings. It was nearing the end of the mating season, but there were still several large males around looking for females, and the occasional low-key fight would break out when their paths crossed. The presence of the large males made the females with cubs nervous, but three families were still regular diners out on the sedge beds – one with one small cub, another with two cubs, and a third female with three small cubs. We always kept a respectful distance and ensured that our presence was not affecting the bears’ behaviour.

Grizzly Bears are certainly not the terrifying killers depicted in so many films. As long as they know where you are and your presence does not impact their activities and plans, then they will largely ignore you; most barely gave us a second glance. They are, however, creatures of habit that do not like surprises, so we ensured that we kept quiet and still when out in the open, but made a noise when in thicker vegetation to ensure that any concealed animal knew we were coming and could get out of the way. There was certainly no shortage of bears! On one day I saw over 40 different animals (including cubs), and counted 22 individuals in one binocular scan!

Chinitna Bay is also home to an interesting variety of birds, including Varied Thrush, Solitary Sandpiper, Red-necked Phalarope, Northern Waterthrush and others. We found Wolf tracks (although not the animal itself) and had brief views of a family of River Otters. As my stay progressed the weather got better and better; the cloud lifted revealing the jagged mountains in the background and the snowy cone and glaciers of Iliamna Volcano. It was a wrench to leave, but at least we flew out under clear blue skies. The views from the aircraft as we followed this wild coastline north were utterly breathtaking and will remain in my memory for many years to come.

It had been a privilege to visit such a remote and beautiful part of the world, and to have the opportunity to explore a rare example of an untouched ecosystem. The lodge I visited is being constructed by someone with a passion for conservation, whose goal is to help conserve the bears, their environment and the other creatures that live there. Chinitna Bay lies just outside the umbrella of protection of Lake Clark National Park and, sadly, the bay’s wildlife has its own threats hanging over it – from mining interests to trophy hunting. The work being done by the conservation body building this new lodge certainly has the support of Naturetrek, and I am looking forward to news of its completion next summer and the opportunity to send our first guests there in the not-too-distant future.

I don’t know why, but I just love birds with a snazzy hairdo. Arguably the best of them resident in the UK are the Crested Tit and Great Crested Grebe (the clue is in the name), although we do have plenty of visitors throughout the year that sport a lovely barnet – Eurasian Spoonbill, Bohemian Waxwing and Eurasian Hoopoe, for example. Whilst being absolutely delighted to see the latter on a twitch in the New Forest, it regrettably did not display its beautiful fan-shaped crest. Never mind, maybe next time.  

As bird families go, though, turacos are difficult to beat, which between the species have some of the finest, sleekest and most delicate headdresses going. When I had the opportunity at the beginning of the year to accompany a Naturetrek group in The Gambia – where over 570 bird species have been recorded – I was especially excited to see Violet and Guinea Turaco.

After a 20-minute drive down a bumpy track (wondering if the driver knew where he was going), we arrived at Mandina Lodges, our home for the next week. It is quite a marvel that such a place exists in this location, where the edge of the Makasutu Cultural Forest meets the mangroves of the River Gambia. We were welcomed by Linda and her team, who tried in vain to keep the attention of the group as African Palm Swift darted effortless overhead, Whimbrel, Senegal Thick-knee and Western Reef-Heron waded in the mangroves by the outdoor bar, and Beautiful and Splendid Sunbird flitted in the bushes. It was going to be a good week!

We met at dawn the following morning, and as the sun’s rays started to permeate the gloom, there was a silhouette of a Giant Kingfisher perched at the top of the mangroves, peering down into the murky creek for its first meal of the day. We set out in canoes from Mandina, making our way along one of the water thoroughfares. As we rounded a bend, we spotted an Osprey in the distance, sunning itself on the bare branch of a tree overhanging the water. After a while, we stopped on land and made our way a short distance to a waterhole, where the action really hotted up. It was impossible to keep up with all the wonderfully named species being mentioned by our guides: Green-headed Sunbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, White-throated and Little Bee-eaters, Variable Sunbird, Northern Red Bishop, Red-cheeked Cordonbleu, Red-billed Firefinch, Bronze Mannikin, and Bearded Barbet – another fine specimen of an unusually feathered bird, with whiskers under its bill.

On another excursion, we headed out on foot into the Makasutu Cultural Forest – a mixture of dense woodland and scrubland, providing habitat for a wide range of species, including a troop of 200 Guinea Baboons. We stood still as they made their way past us, paying no attention to us at all which was both surreal and exhilarating. I was still hoping to see a turaco, though. Sure enough, out in the open scrubland, we found a Violet Turaco, perched on a branch as if waiting for our arrival. Photos of this bird really do not do it justice; its silky, ink-blue and purple body feathers are the perfect foil for the small, vibrant pockets of red, yellow and orange on its head and bill. It is very difficult for this bird to remain camouflaged, but the green Guinea Turaco on the other hand… Our local guides paused under a particularly large tree that dominated its immediate surroundings. Looking up intensively, one of our guides was bobbing his head like an owl, trying to confirm what he had seen. Could it be? Yes, a Guinea Turaco in the canopy, playing hard to get! We stood here for the next 15 minutes, silently shifting positions to get the best view possible. Tantalisingly, we could not see the whole bird, but just as we moved on it shot overhead into the forest beyond. What a tease!   

Overall, it was a wonderful trip with very many happy birding memories. Guinea Turaco aside, it struck me how easy the birding is in The Gambia – one does not have to work hard to see a plethora of amazing birds. Am I happy to have seen a Guinea Turaco? Absolutely! Completely satisfied with the sighting? Not entirely. But it has fuelled my desire to see more turaco species, as well as other birds with striking head feathers.      

In September, I went out to Morocco to co-lead the ‘Birding Southern Morocco’ tour, focusing on the country’s wide array of resident and migratory bird species. We covered all the major habitats that Morocco has to offer, searching for key species and enjoying the breathtaking scenery. Being able to drive from the deserts in the east, all the way across to the wader-rich estuarine habitat in the west was a real privilege, and the change in wildlife was spectacular.

While exploring the dramatic slopes of the High Atlas Mountains, we searched for the near-endemic Crimson-winged Finch. This proved to be tricky task, but we eventually found a large flock feeding just off the path, and also spotted Atlas Horned Lark, Moussier's Redstart, and Atlas Wheatear. One of the many highlights of this trip was finding two Pharaoh Eagle Owls in one of the wadis close to the Tagdilt Track. While we scanned the rock face for Maghreb Wheatear, we found the local Lanner Falcon, which put on an excellent show for the group! Along Morocco’s coast, we spent plenty of time filtering through the vast tern flocks for Lesser Crested Tern – a big Western Palearctic target – and we found a total of five individuals (they can be seen quite easily due to their bright, carrot-like bill). As we wandered back from the beach, we spotted a Northern Bald Ibis gliding across the valley, and then saw an adult and a juvenile feeding on the bare ground in a small village. We sat down and watched these strange creatures forage for snails in the arid landscape.

I have been lucky enough to travel to several destinations this calendar year, so selecting just one of my many awe-inspiring encounters with the natural world has not been an easy task (although it is certainly not an unenviable one). After much consideration, I have awarded the prize to my ‘Swift Weekend in Andalucía’, where a group of Naturetrek clients and I were left entranced by our up-close observations of the Griffon Vulture.

On the penultimate day of our tour, we travelled to the coastal cliffs along Spain’s southern edge, where we sought to trade the sometimes-fleeting glimpses of our migratory swifts for a more prolonged observation of one of Spain’s resident raptors. Setting off early one morning, we traced our way through the ancient cork forests towards the coast, where the wide highways have wizened to narrow tracks. It was yet another journey on our short trip that showcased Andalucía's startling diversity; the golden, patchwork fields surrounding our hotel seemed worlds apart from the rough-edged rock formations ahead. Climbing the track into the cliffs, the Strait of Gibraltar stretched out behind us, glistening in the rapidly rising sun. By the water’s edge, the scattered remains of a Roman settlement sidled into view. The Griffon Vulture would have witnessed the arrival and abandonment of the Romans, as well as all other comings and goings in this fiercely contested corner of Spain. I imagined them perched high up in the cliffs, surveying land and sea with their craning necks and stoic gaze, unmoved by the constant ebb and flow of settlers. But ‘the observers’ were set to become ‘the observed’ as we dismounted from our vehicle just below their nesting colony in the cliff face.

Settling into a purpose-built hide, we found the colony in a stubborn mood, perched stationary in the cliffs. But, as if shaking off our watchful gaze, one by one the vultures lurched into flight. Their sheer size belied the effortless grace with which they glided in and out of their nesting site, with scarcely a twitch in their vast wings. Hundreds of Griffon Vultures orbited impossibly slowly above our heads, blotting out the cloudless Andalucían sky. We watched on entranced for what must have been a couple of hours, silently taking in the splendour. But feeling the strain in our necks and eyes, we reluctantly dragged ourselves away. Returning to the vehicle, we descended back towards the Strait of Gibraltar, the colony gently turning in the sky behind us. For me, a scene of serene beauty and a highlight in a year full of unforgettable moments. For the Griffon Vultures, just another coming and going.

The Galápagos Islands have interested me since I was seven years old, when my grandmother returned from a holiday there and told me incredible tales of her experiences. When I started working at Naturetrek, I was delighted that Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands were among the destinations that I helped to look after. It was therefore very special that, in November this year – 20 years after my grandmother’s visit – I was able to follow in her footsteps by joining our ‘Galápagos Islands – One-week cruise’ on board the Cachalote Explorer. Our small group of 16 travellers was led by the appropriately named Darwin Alvarez. His expert knowledge and overwhelming passion for the islands he calls home, coupled with the camaraderie and shared enthusiasm of the group, made the cruise a truly unforgettable experience. Our daily land excursions afforded us the opportunity to see the abundance of wildlife at incredibly close quarters – from stepping over sleeping sea lions on the jetty, to iguanas strolling casually past our feet. We also had fantastic views of Galápagos Penguins, Galápagos Hawks, frigatebirds and, of course, the famous Blue-footed Boobies. One day in the Galápagos can feel like a week purely because of the sheer number of birds and animals to be seen.

My personal highlight of the tour, however, was the daily snorkelling excursions. Our tour guide, Darwin, was in his element in the sea and, with his careful guidance, even those who had not snorkelled before were able to enjoy the beauty of the underwater world. Fish of all different colours, shapes and sizes were seen flitting in and out of the coral reefs, whilst turtles and eagle rays often drifted elegantly above this hustle and bustle. The experience that I will treasure the most, though, was at Devil’s Crown (near Floreana Island) when, towards the end of the snorkelling session, Cachalote’s Captain radioed our guide to alert us to a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins close by. Our excitement at this news was rewarded when the pod swam right up to us, playfully darting and twisting this way and that, so close that I could see the marks on their skin and hear the clicks and whistles of their conversations. The cruise certainly proved to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Our week in the Galápagos was bookended by time in mainland Ecuador, with a city tour of Quito to kick off the holiday. Upon our return, there was the opportunity to either visit Otavalo – an indigenous market town – or the slopes of Antisana Volcano for Andean birding and stunning mountain scenery, to round off what was the most special of holidays.

Back in March, I took advantage of a last-minute space on our 'Baja California & Sea of Cortez' cruise. As a lifelong cetacean enthusiast (is there a word to describe a whale twitcher?), there are few places better on Earth to go whale-watching than Mexico's Pacific coast. With over 100 whales, seven different cetacean species, megapods of dolphins, and several personal first-time species, it is almost impossible to pick a standout encounter!

When I look back on this tour, my mind immediately takes me to the San Ignacio Lagoon – the primary nursing grounds for the North Pacific's 'friendly' Grey Whales. This is quite possibly the only place on Earth where you can be within touching distance of a whale, and still feel that it is an entirely ethical experience. A unique relationship exists between humans and Gray Whales in San Ignacio: after decades of persecution by whalers, a valiant effort by local authorities and international conservation activists to ban their hunting means the lagoon now exists as a wildlife haven, and the whales have grown affectionate to fishermen and tourists. It is the only place where I have not had to 'work' to spot whales as they quite literally come to you!

We had arrived at the perfect time; almost 200 individuals, including about 30 mother-calf pairs, were still calling the lagoon home. Our arrival early in the morning meant we had the full day to explore the lagoon and observe its inhabitants. After a quick briefing on what to expect during our time here, our group split and descended into four fishing skiffs, manned by local fishermen-turned-guides. We had barely made it 50 metres before a mother and calf made a beeline towards us, lifting their heads out of the water to scratch on the side of the boat. They routinely lifted their heads above the water inviting us to pet and touch. Throughout the day we all enjoyed numerous encounters, and to be able to say that I've scratched the head of a whale, received a welcomed 'blow' to the face and, most special of all, witnessed a glimpse into their lives, is something I will treasure for life.

We headed back to our ship in the early evening to enjoy the delicious food freshly prepared by our chef and crew, surrounded by the blows of nearby whales. I popped out onto the deck for some fresh air after my meal, where a mother-calf pair were lifting themselves high out the water, while a member of our crew held a deck brush over the side of the boat. The whales were scratching themselves on the bristles of the brush! This continued for almost 20 minutes until the whales decided to dive back into the shallows of the lagoon. It was an astonishing encounter, and an incredible way to end an already perfect day.

In June, I was fortunate to lead our privately chartered cruise around Spitsbergen – a region many dream of visiting for its spectacular landscapes, pure remoteness and of course a dazzling abundance of Arctic wildlife.

The cruise was a major success in every respect as we sailed from the island’s capital of Longyearbyen up to 81 degrees north, venturing into stunning fjords to marvel at the jagged glaciers; partaking in landings or Zodiac cruises on a daily basis to observe vast seabird colonies and patrolling Long-tailed Skuas, and, slowly progressing through the pack ice in bitter temperatures, all added to the aura that we were somewhere very special indeed!

However, it was the wildlife that stole the show from start to finish. On two of the days, we had excellent views of patrolling Polar Bears – this being a lifelong dream for many onboard – as was the inquisitive Blue Whale that surfaced close to our vessel on multiple occasions (although the 4am wake-up call wasn’t everyone’s preferred method of observing the world’s largest living creature!). Point-blank views of Arctic Foxes seeking prey (including one wiping out an entire Barnacle Goose family), Walruses lazing on their otherwise desolate beaches, and large pods of Beluga Whales were just some of the other memorable wildlife encounters experienced during this epic voyage.

One of the moments that will stick with me for a very long time, however, was the incredible experience of perching ourselves on the periphery of a Little Auk colony on the island of Fuglesongen, right up in the far north-west corner of Spitsbergen. Home to thousands of breeding Little Auks, the name ‘Fuglesongen’ translates to ‘bird song’, and this is very much evident when sat metres away from the North Atlantic’s smallest alcid as they babbled away to one another. Being almost Adelie Penguin-like in their actions brought with it much humour as they slipped and fell on the rocks and meandered their way through the tiniest of rock crevasses, following one another as they went. The slightest of panics, however, sent the entire colony into the air, forming a dotted cloud as they circled the bay behind us, only to come whooshing past at head height and regaining their position on the rocks next to us. The noise, the chaos and the humour, as well as sharing an exhilarating moment with like-minded wildlife enthusiasts, are the reasons why this stands out as my top highlight from this Arctic paradise.

In October this year, I embarked on a mammoth recce expedition to visit the KAZA (Kavango-Zambezi) Transfrontier Conservation Area. This incredible conservation initiative incorporates some of the world’s most important migratory corridors across Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, covering an area larger than Germany and Austria combined! Wildlife highlights were plentiful, but perhaps my most unexpected highlight came about during an evening dining under the dark skies of Botswana’s Chobe National Park. I was staying at the Chobe Game Lodge, the only lodge located within the park itself. This enviable position ensured that we were able to gain a head start on our morning safaris in one of the country’s best wildlife areas, while guests from other lodges patiently congregated at the park gates several kilometres away.

A day of highlights included a pride of Lions walking straight past the reception area, and a majestic view of a vast herd of African Savanna Elephants – including several small babies using their trunks as snorkels to cross the Chobe River from Namibia. Spirits were understandably high that evening as our group happily settled in to a sumptuous dinner of aubergine roulade, and the most spectacular dessert. Our guide, Janice, had work tirelessly all day, doing her best to bolster our already impressive bird list, and ensuring I had great views of my favourite bird, the Carmine Bee-eater, as a flock nested in the bank of the Chobe River.

We thought that Janice had returned home for a well-earned rest, but midway through our dinner she animatedly beckoned us over, explaining that she wanted us to meet an unexpected guest. Wondering which local dignitary we might need to shake hands with, we dutifully followed her to the back kitchen (not somewhere we were expecting to end up!). There was quite a commotion coming from the sealed-off bins at the back of the building, and we quickly realised that it might not be the human guest we were expecting to meet. We eagerly congregated to gain a good vantage point and were delighted to see that the guest was in fact a Honey Badger that was clearly just as excited about the luxury cuisine of the Chobe Game Lodge as we were! Honey Badgers are one of those near mythical species that I had not expected to find during this visit, particularly during my stay in Chobe, where night-safaris are not permitted. Although quite endearing at first glance, these are a species not to be messed with, so we quietly kept our distance and let this powerful mustelid go about its business for several minutes before retreating to the undergrowth. Although this may not have been the most poetic experience of my stay, I will always cherish my chance to witness one of Africa’s most sought-after mammals. 

In May 2023, I spent eight days exploring the stunning Carpathian Mountains in Romania with a group of Naturetrek clients. It was hard not to be pulled into the fantastical atmosphere, but never mind Dracula, I was searching for another sharp-toothed creature.

The exciting tone was set on the first day during our drive to the guesthouse. As it darkened, it was easy to second-guess yourself when peering into the trees, trying to make out shapes, questioning whether that shape was a Brown Bear or just a large log. A short while later, everyone’s phones erupted into blaring sirens, warning us that there had been a bear sighting in the area and to stay inside where possible. Having never seen a bear in the wild before, just knowing that they were around sent my excitement into overdrive.

We had our first glimpse of a bear on the third day of the trip. As we were going through the checklist and discussing the wealth of wildlife we had seen that day, the guesthouse owner dashed into the room to alert us that a Brown Bear was spotted climbing the mountain ridge opposite. After scrambling to get our scopes and binoculars, we all squeezed onto the balcony and stood in awe observing our first Brown Bear clambering about on the ridge, minding its own business. 

My highlight of the trip came on day five, when we had our bear hide visit. We parked around 200 meters away from the hide and were instructed to walk up quickly and quietly to the hide, having to pass over a small bridge and climb up a tree-rooted path to our destination. As we were still making our way to the hide, we saw a large Brown Bear approach from the trees. With only a ranger between us and the bear, it is safe to say that the adrenaline was pumping! Once safely in the hide, over the next hour, we watched intently as 10 Brown Bears of various sizes – eight females and two males – came and went. Once the males had eaten their nutritious pellets and left the area, it was interesting to see how quickly the females became more relaxed and playful. I could have sworn that one female was playing peek-a-boo with me from behind a log!

Soon our hour was up, and we had to quietly exit the hide, as some bears had not yet vacated the area. Heart-thumping again and walking quickly, I looked back for a moment and made brief eye contact with a female roughly 50 yards away from me, once again with only a ranger between us. It was amazing to witness the respect between the bears and the rangers who had been interacting with each other for years – a true example of living in harmony with nature.

The magic of Romania lies within its wildlife, and it holds a special place in my memory.

In June, I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to join one of our ‘Brazil – Just Jaguars’ tours. There were many highlights, including travelling along the famous Transpantaneira road into the Pantanal, and enjoying the plentiful birdlife with numerous heron, egret, kingfisher and stork species in and around the pools alongside the road, and several species of raptor perched in the vegetation. The wildlife we enjoyed throughout the tour will live long in the memory, but two encounters in particular stand out in my mind.

The target species is, of course, Jaguar, and we saw at least one on each of our boat trips from the flotel. Out on the water on our first afternoon, the search for our quarry began with our guide and boat driver scouring the banks of the river. Soon, a radio call came through and we were speeding along to a reported sighting. Arriving at the scene, we joined the small throng of boats already gathered and started scanning the banks. Our guide spotted movement of the long grass as the Jaguar hunted along the riverbank. Although often obscured from sight by the vegetation, every now and then we got a tantalising glimpse of some spots or the tip of a tail flick. On a couple of occasions, we almost saw the whole cat as the vegetation thinned and it moved closer to the edge of the bank. The anticipation and excitement continued to build until finally, this fabulous big cat emerged completely from the tall grass out onto the riverbank. What a view! It was a fantastic experience that only got better as the Jaguar serenely walked down the bank and into the river, swam behind our boat, climbed up the opposite bank and melted back into the vegetation.

We enjoyed more Jaguar sightings over the next few days, including some individuals out in the open, walking along the exposed riverbank. We would spend the afternoon watching them until the sun began to set and it was time to leave. Other special species seen in this wonderful part of the world included Giant Otter, Neotropical Otter, Yacare Caiman, Capybara, Black-and-gold Howler Monkey, Toco Toucan and Hyacinth Macaw.

My second highlight of the trip happened on our final night of the tour, on our last night walk from the lodge. We had already seen Crab-eating Fox and brocket deer in the light of our guide’s spotlight. Suddenly, our guide stopped walking and whispered ‘Tapir’, directing his spotlight onto this weird but wonderful creature. I had hoped to see Brazilian Tapir, and I thoroughly enjoyed our time watching it as it foraged, completely unperturbed by the spotlight. All too soon, it disappeared behind a large clump of bushes. It was a superb finale to a truly wonderful, wildlife-filled tour.

In March 2023, I co-led our ‘La Palma in Spring’ tour, exploring one of the lesser-known islands in the west of the Canary Islands archipelago. The dramatic volcanic landscapes, lush laurel forests, high elevations above katabatic clouds, black-sand beaches, endemic species, and magnificent marine life made this a fantastic trip!

However, there were some specific species that I particularly enjoyed observing in situ. The La Palma Lizard (Gallotia galloti palmae) is an endemic subspecies of the Western Canary Islands Lizard unique to La Palma. The colouration of the males is absolutely stunning, as they often boast vibrant blue and/or yellow blotches against a charcoal black ‘canvas’. Something that is not well known about Gallotia lizards is their importance in seed dispersal through their fruit-eating habits across the Canary Islands. 50 native plant species are known to be dispersed by these lizards, including specialised endemics such as the shrub Neochamelea pulverulenta. With a lack of fruit-eating native mammals and relatively low bird diversity, these lizards are a primary seed disperser in the archipelago, and they tend to disperse the seeds in open areas with plentiful light, optimising the conditions for many plant species. Not only are these lizards vital to the survival of Canary Island flora, but they are also a key weapon in the fight against invasive plants outcompeting natives. Another reptile unique to this region is Tarentola delalandii – a charming gecko that can be seen basking on old stone walls, allowing a close approach.

During our boat trips, it was exciting to spend time with two huge pods of Atlantic Spotted Dolphins! They are a playful species, and they often interacted with our boat by racing alongside us at high speed and performing impressive breaches out of the water. They are also known to occasionally join forces with pods of Common Bottlenose Dolphins. The ‘Spotted’ in their name refers to the speckled pattern on the skin of older individuals, which is not as bold in juveniles. We also saw Striped and Common Dolphins in the distance. In addition, a healthy pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales put on a show for us at close range, allowing a brief underwater view from below deck. Technically a large dolphin, these curious cetaceans prefer to eat squid and can dive up to depths of 1,000 metres in search of it! They tend to hunt in the darkness of night at high speed, but during the day they are quite docile at the surface. To top this off, we had amazing encounters with multiple impressive Bryde's Whales (a baleen whale) and a curious Loggerhead Turtle!

On land, endemism was a key feature of our natural history focus, and we were not disappointed. Key bird targets were found in the form of Laurel & Bolle’s Pigeon throughout the lush laurel forests, and Atlantic Canary, Berthelot’s Pipit, Canary Island Chiffchaff, and the very recently described La Palma Chaffinch were also observed in detail. Insects unique to the region included Canary Red Admiral, Canary Skipper, Canary Islands Bumblebee, Canary Flower Bee, Canary Blue, and more. Specialist plants were on show wherever we looked, including Canary Bellflower, Canary Samphire and the La Palma Pansy – a species endemic to the high-altitude areas of La Palma. The most spectacular view we had was at the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory, approximately 2,400 metres above sea level.

One of my highlights from 2023 has to be seeing Humpback Whales in Monterey Bay in August as part of our ‘Whales & Dolphins of Monterey Bay’ tour.

On our first morning, we headed out from Fisherman’s Wharf, with some morning fog still lingering across the water. Our initial cetacean encounter was with a large pod of several thousand Long-beaked Common Dolphin. They quickly surrounded our boat, leaping and splashing, as well as hunting. While we watched them, we started to become aware of some large blows a bit further out. The dolphins were also heading in that direction, so we moved slowly alongside them, with some taking advantage and bow riding at the front of the boat. Before too long, we could make out tail flukes coming clear of the water as the whales dived. They were definitely Humpbacks! There was a bit of a feeding frenzy going on, with the whales deep diving and coming up through the fish, with some showing lunge feeding behaviour. Dolphins and Californian Sea Lions were chasing the fish pushed up by the whales, and various seabirds picked off fish from near the surface. It was difficult to know where to look as there was so much action, with at least 10 different whales in this one group and more scattered around us – including some breaching off in the distance near the shore. A young whale outside of the melee was amusing itself with some kelp while its mother was down feeding. We were privileged to watch this individual for some time as it rolled around and spy-hopped with the kelp draped over its head. 

On another foggy day, we headed south out of the harbour. It seemed quiet initially, but again we started to spot blows and flukes in the distance. One of the whales that we found breached multiple times, some at close range, and created massive splashes as it hit the water again. It was also rolling and using its pectoral fins to slap the water, causing a loud noise each time. No one is exactly sure why they display this behaviour, although some think it has to do with the removal of parasites from their bodies. Whatever the reason, it is amazing and impressive to watch these huge creatures launch themselves out of the water, allowing you to see their shape and details on their body, like their rostral pleats and tubercles.

We took five different boat trips throughout the tour and observed different behaviour each time. Other species that also delighted were Sea Otter, Anna’s Hummingbird, Acorn Woodpecker, Northern Elephant Seal and Gopher Snake.

With the expectation that the south of France would have balmy weather in mid-May, we were shocked to experience temperatures hovering only tentatively above 0°C. As it turned out, the UK was ‘enjoying’ a spectacular heatwave during this same week. Our group for ‘Vercors in Spring’ was not put off, however, and with typical British nonchalance towards these unexpected conditions, we delved straight into exploring this stunningly dramatic and biodiverse corner of France. Despite the climatic conditions delaying the emergence of some of our target species (Lady’s Slipper Orchid being one), we enjoyed the spectacular scenery, the vertiginous drops, and the vultures, Black Kites, Golden and Snake Eagles soaring over the green-cloaked limestone cliffs.

Not only are the meadows in the Vercors amazingly rich in wildflowers and invertebrates, but even the roadsides are home to species we only rarely see in the British countryside; Lizard, Burnt-tip, Monkey, Man and Lady Orchid were commonly recorded on our daily excursions. Although we enjoyed some fantastic views of Alpine Ibex, the charismatic Alpine Marmot somehow eluded us, leading some guests to believe that they were mere legend. That all changed on the ‘Vercors in Summer’ tour.

After my Spring trip, I subsequently led the ‘Vercors in Summer’ tour (which I have to say was very hot!). Although a much smaller group, we didn’t lack in spotting powers and achieved an impressive species list of animals and plants – amongst which we were thrilled to find the exceptionally rare Ghost Orchid (the location of which remains highly confidential), as well as plenty of active Alpine Marmots! On the plateaus, we discovered Black Vanilla Orchids while enjoying the company of playful Alpine Choughs. However, the heat was far too much for the likes of Wallcreepers – another target for next time!