Peru - The Mountain Lodges trek to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is a 15th-century Inca ruin spectacularly located 2,430 metres above sea level in the Peruvian Andes in the Cusco region of Peru. Perched atop a mountain ridge above the Urubamba Valley, 50 miles north-west of Cusco, most archaeologists believe that it was built around 1450 as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti (1438–1472). Abandoned just over 100 years later, at the height of the Spanish conquest (although there is no evidence that the conquistadors ever knew of or visited the site), the citadel is now referred to as the ‘Lost City of the Incas’. One of the most familiar icons of South America and the jewel in Peru’s crown, Machu Picchu, and our trek to it (using luxury lodges rather than camping!), form the focal point of this mouthwatering holiday.  

This trek follows a different — and quieter — route from the ‘classic’ Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, but offers a unique opportunity to experience the majesty of one of the world’s great mountain ranges on foot, yet with the benefit of the revitalising comfort of a luxury lodge at the end of each day’s walk. Our route to Machu Picchu winds through the spectacular peaks, emerald-green glacial lakes and forested canyons of the Cordillera Vilcabamba. Following in the footsteps of the Incan ‘chaskis’ — the relay runners who delivered messages along the vast web of footpaths that linked Cusco to the far flung corners of the Inca Empire, we too will be on a mission along the varied 32-mile route, targeting the special birds of the area while winding our way inexorably towards our goal. If the prospect of ending a day’s trek in a cramped tent has previously dissuaded you from contemplating a mountain trek, then we hope that you might now be persuaded otherwise! Having experienced the raw beauty and rugged elements of the Andes during daylight, we will finish each day on trek in one of four inviting lodges offering fine gourmet meals, select wines, goose-down bedding, hot showers, outdoor jacuzzis and even an optional massage; our award-winning hosts really have thought of everything with their attentive, high quality service. 

Having flown to Peru’s capital, Lima, and on to Cusco to acclimatise for a day, we drive to the remote mountain village of Marcoccasa from where we begin walking to Salkantay Lodge, six hours’ trekking away and our base for the next two nights. The lodge takes its name from Mount Salkantay, the second most sacred peak in Incan mythology and, at over 6,000 metres, the highest peak in the region. After a day of magnificent Andean scenery, hummingbirds, canesteros and conebills, and perhaps even an Andean Condor, we will arrive to an open fire, tea and cookies. A similarly warm welcome is assured on each day of our trek! 

Day two involves an acclimatisation walk up to Lake Humantay, fed by the great glaciers of imposing Mount Humantay above. The walk is optional, but recommended, although a dip in the lake is only for the hardy! After lunch back at the lodge, the afternoon is for leisure, photography, birding (threatened Polylepis forest is nearby and is productive for mixed-species feeding flocks) and the superb jacuzzi! The following morning sees us contemplating the highest point of the trek, the Salkantay pass (at about 5,000 metres), from where the imposing south face of Salkantay itself towers above us and Andean Condors are often seen. After the pass and a hot lunch, we then descend to the treeline and Wayra Lodge. 

On day four we descend along the left bank of the Salkantay River, passing through increasingly verdant scenery and encountering the warmer, humid air that rises from the jungle to the east. Orchids abound here, together with colourful, swirling mixed-species bird flocks containing Pearled Treerunners, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers and many more. A highlight at Colpa Lodge is the traditional Pachamanca meal which consists of tender layered meat, hot stones and vegetables all covered up to bake! Another outdoor jacuzzi here offers panoramic views of cloudforested ridges and peaks. Our next day’s hike to Lucma Lodge traverses some of the best organic coffee plantations in the world. Then from Lucma we continue on towards Aguas Calientes, from where we’ll enjoy our first view of Machu Picchu from the south-east, a view that few other visitors have ever had the opportunity to admire. Further superb subtropical birding, and the ruins themselves, are now just a short train ride away! 

Our final night will be spent in the luxurious Pueblo Hotel in Aguas Calientes below Machu Picchu, whose gardens are filled with Saffron-crowned and Blue-necked Tanagers, and along whose borders flows the turbulent Urubamba River, home to Peru’s most viewable population of Torrent Ducks.