Hidden Extremadura

Extremadura is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most attractive destinations for a birdwatching holiday, the land of the conquistadors offering wide open steppes, endless horizons, bright blue skies, bustards, larks, raptors, Bee-eaters and Rollers, delicious jamón ibérico and velvety-smooth red wine at a fraction of the price we would pay at home. Our current Naturetrek tours in Extremadura include a single-centre ‘Go Slow’ tour, a birdwatching holiday for beginners, an annual Christmas tour, and tours combining Extremadura with either Coto Doñana or the Gredos Mountains. This holiday, however, explores some of the less well-known areas of Extremadura, further to the west, that we do not visit during our other holidays.

After a flight to Madrid we will drive to our comfortable base for the week, a former stately home in the outskirts of Cáceres now lovingly converted into a fine spa hotel. The hotel's restaurant is a real culinary reference point around Cáceres, both for the fine traditional Extremaduran cuisine on offer and for the impressive wine list, much of which is produced locally. Another highlight of staying here is the opportunity to view the custom-built nesting platforms within the ancient olive grove in the hotel's grounds, where at least 30 pairs of White Storks breed annually.

The city of Cáceres itself is quite remarkable in terms of its historical importance. Indeed, the oldest cave paintings in the world, believed to be the work of Neanderthals and over 64,000 years old, are located here, in the Cave of Maltravieso. Although the cave is not open to the public, we will certainly make time to explore the Roman, Moorish and Gothic architecture of the old town, where White Storks, Lesser Kestrels, Pallid Swifts and Barn Owls all nest on or within the historic buildings.

The surrounding countryside offers steppe habitat and Cork Oak woodland in which we will search for a wide range of species, some populations of which are of great importance on a European scale, including Cinereous and Egyptian Vultures, Spanish Imperial Eagle, Black Stork and Lesser Kestrel. The sweeping grasslands, for which Extremadura is so well known, will see us combing the undulating landscape for highly sought-after, but declining, open-country species such as Great and Little Bustard, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse and Stone-curlew.

At this time of year, heaths and patches of woodland will be alive with birds having just completed their arduous migration from sub-Saharan Africa, such as Bee-eater, Hoopoe, Roller, Golden Oriole and Woodchat Shrike, and we will be sure to explore thoroughly in search of these attractive species. Although Extremadura is not noted for its wetlands, pockets of suitable habitat do exist for birds such as Little Bittern, Glossy Ibis, Black-crowned Night Heron, Penduline Tit and Great Reed Warbler. 

A visit to a bird hide on the plains will be a particular highlight of the week. Here, bones and offal are placed out for the birds of prey and we can hope to enjoy close encounters with Black Kite, Griffon and Black Vultures and, if fortunate, perhaps Spanish Imperial Eagle or Egyptian Vulture.

Extremadura's principal river is the Guadiana, which cuts through the region's capital, Merida. This ancient city was founded by the Romans in around 25BC and draws visitors keen to see its Roman theatre and the longest Roman bridge in Spain. We will spend a day in and around Merida to appreciate those monuments and to enjoy some gentle birding, with Red-rumped Swallows darting under the Roman bridge perhaps being one of the highlights.

Although we aim to visit the less well-known (in terms of birdwatching) corners of Extremadura during this holiday, we do make one exception, Monfragüe National Park. A holiday to Extremadura can feel incomplete without a visit to this jewel in the crown, so we will spend a full day here combining stops to scan with short walking routes in search of some of the park's wonderful birdlife, including Spanish Imperial Eagle, Blue Rock Thrush and Black Stork.

Each day, an optional early bird walk will precede breakfast, following which we will set out to explore other bird-rich habitats, from lakes and rivers to steppes and woodlands, looking for a wide range of species including Cinereous and Egyptian Vultures, Golden and Bonelli’s Eagles, Bee-eaters, Rollers, Hoopoes, a variety of warblers and herons, Great and Little Bustards, and both Pin-tailed and Black-bellied Sandgrouse. A boat trip along the River Tagus will be a particular highlight, especially as the resident pair of Bonelli’s Eagles may often be seen perched, sentry-like, on the rocky outcrops above, and a free afternoon in historic Cáceres will appeal to those with a cultural leaning. On each day we will aim to be back at our hotel well before dinner, so there should be time to enjoy the spa; we will also offer optional evening and night-time walks after dinner on some days in search of insects and amphibians.

Whether you are contemplating your first visit to Spain or have already spent time birdwatching in Extremadura, please do consider this exciting and varied itinerary; the exceptional base is particularly suitable for those who would prefer to dip in and out of the daily excursions offered.