Spain's Picos de Europa Mountains

The Cantabrian Mountains run along the north coast of Spain for about 300 kilometres. The Picos de Europa lie in the centre of this range, a dramatic block of jagged limestone peaks, amongst them Torre de Cerrado, at 2,648 metres, the highest mountain in northern Spain. These little-known mountains remain an area of wild natural beauty, rich in bird and plant-life and with many species of butterflies, including the Scarce Swallowtail, Apollo, Camberwell Beauty, Gavarnie Blue, and many different fritillaries, blues and ringlets. The whiteness of the limestone is a special feature of an area comprised of deep gorges, towering white cliffs and pinnacles, woods and alpine pastures.

This holiday is in some ways similar in format to our popular holidays in the French and Spanish Pyrenees, but with a character all of its own. It is a 2-centre holiday, and we will be based in two very different hotels, one in the small village of Arenas in the northern Picos, the other in the delightfully unspoilt and attractive village of Cosgaya, in the southern Picos. Each village is surrounded by meadows and mountains, a base from which to explore the countryside, either on foot or by taking our minibus further afield. A picnic is provided each day giving you a chance to sample some of the excellent wines and cheeses from the Picos region! By travelling slightly later in the summer, we will see all those lovely plants we miss in the Pyrenees: the English Iris, Brown Foxglove, Yellow Wolfsbane and Lizard Orchid being just some of them. Our excursions will start along gentle valley routes, using ancient tracks trodden by shepherds and woodcutters. Often they are lined with crumbling stone walls filled with ferns. We will progress to fabulous mountain views, but the pace of our walks will allow us plenty of time to enjoy the natural history of the many habitats through which we pass.

The highlight for alpine plant lovers is the top of the Fuente Dé, reached by cable car. This will take us up 800 metres, to a wild area of limestone scree and pavement. From the top, we will walk towards the Refugio de Aliva. Here, amongst crevices, we may see Narcissus asturiensis, the showy yellow Saxifraga aretioides, gentians, Teucrium pyrenaicum, Aquilegia discolor and many others including the beautiful white buttercup, Ranunculus amplexicaulis.

The birds of the high Picos are no less spectacular. Griffon and Egyptian Vultures are particularly common, whilst Booted and Short-toed Eagles soar above the peaks together with Buzzards, Sparrowhawks, and occasionally Hen Harriers. Amongst the high crags it is possible to see Crag Martins, Alpine Accentors, Snow Finches, Rock Thrushes and, with luck, the elusive Wallcreeper. We will also see raptors in the gorges running through the mountains.

A delightful valley walk leads to the Refugio de Aliva. En route we pass old farm buildings in flower-filled meadows, and on the rocky outcrops we will look for Sempervivum cantabricum, Petrocoptis glaucifolia and the Yellow Snapdragon (Antirrhinum braun-blanquetii).

The Picos region supports many interesting orchids. Along meadows and pathways we may see Ophrys species such as Bee, Insect, Woodcock and Sawfly, and also the Man and occasional Tongue Orchid. In damp meadows and along stream sides there will be a riot of Marsh Orchids, and perhaps the rare Robust Orchid. The beautiful blue Eryngium bourgatii and Dianthus monspessulanus (the Fringed Pink) and Linum viscosum (Sticky Flax) are common companions for the wayside orchids. We will also explore the heathlands for the beautiful and interesting Daboecia cantabrica (St Daboec’s Heath).

Extensive mixed woodlands still exist, some of them dominated by the Pyrenean Oak. We will also visit the beechwoods in the Andara, a known habitat for Capercaillie and Black Woodpeckers. Other woodland birds may include Spotted Flycatcher, Short-toed Treecreeper, Firecrest and Bonelli’s Warbler.

On the high mountain slopes we will hope to see Chamois and, although we are unlikely to see one, we must nonetheless keep our eyes open for Wolf and Brown Bear, which still retain a foothold in these mountains. The Snow Vole is the smallest mammal we may see, and after rain, the yellow and black Fire Salamanders might appear.

This region, fortunately still somewhat lost in time, holds something of interest for everyone. The flowers, butterflies and birds are outstanding ... and the scenery is exceptional.