A Swift Break in Andalucia

Common, Pallid, Alpine, Little and White-rumped Swift. In the autonomous region of Andalucía, at the most southerly point of mainland Europe, it is possible to find all five of Europe's breeding species of this most aerially-gifted genus over the course of a short break. It is the only place in Europe where this is possible. Here, Andalucía’s position at the gateway of two continents offers a unique blend of Europe and Africa, with our beloved swifts both breeding in the region and passing through on their way to and from their breeding grounds elsewhere. The most exotic amongst them, Little and White-rumped Swift, maintain just a toehold in Europe, breeding only in a few localised sites.

After a flight to Gibraltar, we will be based on this holiday close to Vejer de la Frontera in a lovingly converted farmhouse. After settling in, we will take time to explore Los Alcornacales Natural Park on our doorstep. Within the park lies the most extensive cork oak forest in Europe; this particular tract being unique in the way that it gathers moisture coming in off the ocean to create what is best described as a humid Mediterranean cloudforest. Through special access to a private site we should be able to find Rufous-tailed Bush Robin and perhaps a day-roosting Red-necked Nightjar. Other interesting birds include Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Firecrest, Crested Tit, Hawfinch and Short-toed Treecreeper, whilst amongst the heath and on the rocky outcrops we will be looking for Blue Rock Thrush, Thekla Lark and Black-eared Wheatear. This time of year is also ideal for invertebrate-viewing, with Monarch butterflies, Two-tailed Pashas and Copper Demoiselles amongst many insect species on the wing and, additionally, a host of amphibians and reptiles to be seen.

As our holiday unfolds, we will be looking skywards for small flocks of Alpine Swifts over breakfast each morning, with groups of these stunning, super-sized swifts already passing overhead on passage, moving through from their montane breeding sites to their sub-Saharan wintering grounds. A visit to the nearby town of Vejer de la Frontera will be full of interest, as it was here, in 2008, that a successful reintroduction programme of the critically endangered Northern Bald Ibis took place. From an initial 30 pairs, the birds now number close to 100 pairs, and we should be able to see these engaging and somewhat comical birds at their nesting colony on low, road-side cliffs, or feeding in nearby farmland. After our encounter with the Bald Ibis, we will head out to the farmland and wetlands of La Janda. Once a vast wetland, today La Janda is partly farmed, though not intensively, and amongst its rice paddies, pools and reedbeds, some real wetland gems can be found, hinting at the site’s former natural glory. Amongst many hundreds of White Storks and Glossy Ibises, we should also see such species as Purple Swamphen, Marsh Harrier and Black-winged Kite. There is also a chance of both Spanish Imperial and Bonelli’s Eagle. We will round off our first full day with a visit to a tiny breeding colony of White-rumped Swifts. Several pairs of this species, more commonly associated with breeding sites in Africa, have been found to occupy a collection of old Red-rumped Swallows’ nests. Close by is a stretch of open water, providing rich feeding both for the White-rumped Swifts as well as for large numbers of Common and Pallid Swifts, swallows and martins. This evening will be a feast of hirundines!

Our penultimate day will see us head northwest in pursuit of the last of our five swifts — the Little Swift. This is another typically African species, better known from the souks and medinas of Marrakech! But, as for White-rumped Swift, the Strait has proved no barrier for this tiny Apus, and we will be able to visit a coastal breeding site near Cadiz to enjoy its aerial antics. Cadiz bay also offers some exceptional coastal habitat, much of which is wetland protected under the Ramsar Convention. At this time of year, the southerly migration has already begun for many waders, and we can hope to see Curlew Sandpiper, Sanderling, Dunlin, Little Stint and both Bar-tailed and Black-tailed Godwits passing through, along with breeding Collared Pratincoles, Avocets and Kentish Plovers. There are also many seabirds present such as Sandwich, Little, Gull-billed and Caspian Terns, Slender-billed Gull and the once extremely rare Audouin’s Gull, while freshwater lagoons nearby provide habitat for Whiteheaded and Marbled Ducks, Red-crested Pochard, Squacco Heron, Little Bittern and Red-knobbed Coot.

Finally, weather permitting, we will take a boat trip into the Strait to enjoy the seabird passage and look for cetaceans. We will be on the lookout for Cory's, Scopoli's and Balearic Shearwaters and Wilson's Storm Petrel among other species, plus the three species of resident dolphins (Common, Bottlenose and Striped) and the resident pods of Long-finned Pilot Whales. We may even be lucky enough to find larger, migratory whales, such as Fin or Sperm, or even a pod of Orcas! Once back on dry land, we will visit the Old Town of Tarifa, where we can encounter Common Bulbul and breeding Lesser Kestrels. A stroll along the picturesque harbour front will be a very pleasant way to round off our holiday, with Common and Pallid Swifts wheeling noisily overhead.