Ecuador - The Andes & Amazon

Biologically, South America is the richest of the Earth’s continents. Its Amazon Basin holds the largest and most diverse tract of tropical rainforest on the planet, while its major mountain range, the Andes, harbours an astonishing variety of ecosystems that range from the tundralike páramo and epiphyte-laden cloudforest to rain-shadow valleys and deciduous deserts. To sample these riches there is no better country in which to start than Ecuador. In this small country an astonishing diversity of birdlife may be found (the greatest for its size in South America), and with a welcoming people, relatively short travel distances and good accommodation, birdwatching here is truly a delight.

We begin our holiday with a thorough exploration of the western slope of the Andes, focusing first on the well-known and spectacular Nono-Mindo road. This long, winding road heads west from the outskirts of Quito at the base of Volcán Pichincha. We pass through near-páramo habitat before working our way down the western Pacific slope via the undisturbed temperate forest at Yanacocha. Highlights here may include Andean Guan, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Black-chested Mountain-tanager and a whole kaleidoscope of hummingbirds at the spectacular hummingbird feeding station, including Sword-billed Hummingbird. Moving down in altitude, we pass through subtropical forest, looking for such species as Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Toucan Barbet, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Booted Racket-tail and more. During the afternoon we will arrive at a comfortable birders’ lodge in a valley of pristine cloudforest just outside Mindo, our accommodation for the next three nights. It is a delight to lie back in one of the hammocks and watch up to 12 species feeding on the sugar-water from one of the feeders. Mindo is a small town surrounded by hillside after hillside of lush verdant cloudforest. Many of the western endemic birds may be found here. One of many highlights during this leg of our holiday will be a morning spent at Refugio Paz de las Aves. A Cock-of-the-rock lek at dawn, five species of habituated antpittas (Giant, Moustached, Ochre-breasted, Chestnut-crowned and Yellow-breasted), plus Dark-backed Wood-quail and Rufous-breasted Antthrush, make this one of South America’s most unforgettable birding experiences. If that is not enough, later in the morning we will walk to a feeding station where Toucan Barbets and Black-chinned Mountain Tanagers are confiding enough to take bananas from the hand!

The next leg of our journey takes us on a short flight over the Andes and down to the Amazonian lowlands. Here we will travel down the mighty Napo River by motorised canoe for an exciting 4-night stay at the exceptional Sacha Lodge. The lodge itself enjoys a wonderful location by the side of a secluded and peaceful oxbow lake, deep within virgin rainforest. One of the many highlights of our stay here will be the 50-metre-high canopy walkway that gives us splendid access to the forest canopy. An early morning spent here is an unforgettable experience offering the chance to enjoy some superb mixedspecies feeding flocks of tanagers, toucans, parrots, macaws, euphonias, flycatchers and birds of prey. On other excursions we will paddle through beautiful flooded creeks in traditional dugout canoes. For those preferring a temporary break from the birding, a morning spent in the company of one of the local indigenous guides is fascinating. Their knowledge of medicinal plants, local tools and weapons and their overall jungle craft is remarkable. Mammals in the rainforest are notoriously difficult to spot but at Sacha there is an excellent chance of seeing up to six species of monkey. Sloths, deer, anteaters and even wild cats can be seen with some luck, while Spectacled Caiman and Side-necked Turtles are common in the surrounding blackwater lagoons.

Next we drive over the Amazonian floodplain and up the eastern slopes of the Andes to Cabañas San Isidro, a lodge that is well known for its warm hospitality and busy flocks of multi-coloured tanagers. Moving higher still, the windswept grassy páramo on the Papallacta Pass holds many interesting high-elevation birds (including Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe and Red-rumped Bush-tyrant), plus the endearing Andean Bear. There is no better way to end a day’s birding than with a bottle of wine, fresh locally caught trout and a long soak in the hot thermal springs beneath the equatorial stars!

Finally, before our flight home, we will explore the dramatic landscapes of the beautiful Antisana Volcano (dormant since 1802), its 5,704-metre peak towering above us. This is a reliable site for Andean Condor, and this scenically stunning site will make for a fitting finale to a bird-filled tour packed with avian and other highlights.