France - Cranes & Champagne

This holiday is timed to provide a very special ornithological experience amid the gentle rural setting of northern France’s Champagne country. Firstly, we head to Sainte-Marie-du-Lac-Nuisement for a 3-night stay alongside Lac du Der — the largest artificial lake in France, built on the River Marne it holds back water preventing Paris from flooding, which lies a little more than 100 miles to the west. For the remaining three nights of the holiday, we drive the hour to Mesnil-Saint-Père in the southwest of the region alongside Lac d’Orient within the Parc Naturel Régional de la Forêt d’Orient. As well as a detailed look at the lakes, we will also explore this immense forest where several reserves have seen little or no human intervention for decades and have become a paradise for many species of woodland plants and animals.

After travelling on the Eurostar service direct from London St. Pancras to Paris we then take a local train to Troyes, from where we will transfer by minibus to La Bocagère, a comfortable family-run hotel in Mesnil St-Père, our base for the first three nights of the tour. From here we will explore the Lac du Der and the smaller and less well-known Etang de la Horre, looking in particular for Common Cranes. Twice every year more than 150,000 Common Cranes pass through the area on their journeys between breeding grounds in northern Europe and wintering sites in southern France and Spain. In November, vast numbers arrive at much the same time and pause here to rest and feed before continuing their journey. We should observe many hundreds, perhaps thousands, feeding in the nearby fields during the day, and even more coming to roost in the late afternoon, filling the air with their evocative trumpeting calls. As many as 100,000 Cranes have been estimated at the roost, making this one of Western Europe’s most spectacular assemblages of birds. The lakes and meadows attract a wide variety of other species. Birds of prey are varied and plentiful, the most interesting being White-tailed Eagle. This is their only regular wintering site in France, attracting a minimum of two or three birds every year. Other regularly recorded raptors include Rough-legged Buzzard, Merlin, and both Marsh and Hen Harrier. Waterfowl are plentiful on the lakes and of particular interest will be parties of Goosander, with lesser numbers of Black-necked Grebe bobbing on the open water and flocks of Tundra Bean Geese grazing in waterside fields.

Moving on, we spend the next three nights at the Auberge du Lac in Mesnil-Saint-Père, from here we will make the most of our time spent around the vast woodland area of the Forêt d’Orient; several areas within this forest have been set aside as reserves. Six species of woodpecker are resident and the deciduous trees will have dropped their leaves making it easier to spot members of this popular family of birds. During our time in the forest we will hope to find the impressive Black Woodpecker, plus Middle Spotted Woodpecker, its smaller cousin, and a variety of other bird species including Short-toed Treecreeper, Firecrest, Hawfinch and if we’re lucky, the elusive Goshawk. The lakes also hold an exciting array of waterfowl and in a good year Bewick’s Swans, Red-necked Grebe, Great Northern and Red-throated Diver make the tour list, with White Stork also regular in recent years. A typical day sees us return to our accommodation in the late afternoon, giving time to enjoy the hotel’s excellent spa facilities before dinner.

Whilst here, we will keenly anticipate a visit to Champagne Drappier, a friendly, family-run champagne producer located in the Côte des Bar. Renowned for organic and natural methods of cultivation and production, the Drappier champagnes have rich, coppery-gold hues, expansive aromas and a fine, subtle effervescence. Oozing with charm and good humour, proprietor Michel Drappier takes great care and pride in welcoming visitors to his domain. The visit starts in the magnificent 12th century vaulted cellars, originally built by Cistercian monks. We then continue to the winery where we will see the grape press, huge fermentation vats and the wooden ageing barrels as well as the disgorging and labelling lines. The visit will be rounded off with a tasting of several of the Drappier cuvées. We will take the opportunity to visit exquisite Troyes, with its historic centre of half-timbered houses and beautiful squares. Situated on the River Seine, the city was the capital of the ancient Province of Champagne in the 12th and 13th centuries and great trading fairs took place here. The prosperity of the city has left a very rich heritage, including 10 churches with exceptional stained glass windows, fine Renaissance statuary and some notable museums. A guided tour will provide a fascinating insight.

As we leave France after this memorable taste of two very contrasting bird habitats deep within Champagne country, we may choose to toast the thousands of roosting Cranes as they bid us adieu from the fields of winter stubble.