Georgia in Spring

The mighty snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus Mountains sweep eastward from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea forming an imposing natural frontier between the vastness of the Russian Federation to the north and the Republic of Georgia. Winter snows and fierce winds make the higher elevations of these mountains an inhospitable and barren habitat, forcing many of the specialised birds which breed in the high peaks to retreat to the lower slopes and valleys where conditions in the winter are less severe. With the onset of spring, however, the increasing warmth of the sun gradually melts the snow cover to release the high pastures and crags from their icy winter blanket allowing these hardy mountain denizens to return. During this transition from winter to spring, the northern Georgian village of Kazbegi has acquired a reputation for being a perfect location from which to see many highly prized Palearctic rarities before they ascend higher into the mountains and are lost from view. This exciting tour is timed to coincide with this short period when most of the desired species can readily be found close to the village.

Arriving in Tbilisi, we quickly leave the city behind and journey north for approximately two hours to the village of Kazbegi, located in the heart of the Greater Caucasus Mountains and our base for the next three nights. The village lies in a beautiful valley at an altitude of 1,800 metres and offers easy access to a tantalising variety of high alpine species. Caucasian Snowcock betray their presence with curlew-like calls from the rocky crags above our hotel, whilst the scrubby areas of Blackthorn on the outskirts of the village often hold plump Great Rosefinches and stunning Güldenstädt’s Redstart, the latter the largest, and arguably the most beautiful, of a genus well noted for its attractive colours. Nearby cliffs are the haunt of Wallcreepers, whilst riverine vegetation is likely to hold good numbers of migrating passerines, including Wryneck and Red-breasted Flycatcher. If the weather allows, an afternoon will be spent watching the raptor migration through the gorge, where over 30 species of raptors have been observed.

With the aid of 4-wheel drive vehicles we will journey up to the picturesque 14th century Gergeti Trinity Church, in a quest for Caucasian Black Grouse, Lammergeier, Griffon Vulture, Caucasian Chiffchaff and Twite, with the chance of possibly encountering the powerfully built endemic East Caucasian Tur (which is closely related to the Ibex).

After three nights in Kazbegi, a very leisurely drive back to Tbilisi sees us stopping frequently to view the spectacular Jvari Pass for White-winged Snowfinch, and several other sites for Green Warbler, Semi-collared Flycatcher and Krüper’s Nuthatch, before arriving in good time to enjoy a night in the capital.

Travelling east, we venture out into Georgia’s vast open steppes, where shallow reed-fringed lakes provide the chance of Dalmatian Pelican, Grey-headed Swamphen and Pygmy Cormorant amongst a variety of waders which may include both Broad-billed and Terek Sandpipers. The beautiful 6th century rock monasteries of Davit Gareja offer a fabulous setting in which to search for Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Nuthatch, and Pied and Finsch’s Wheatears, whilst the historic town of Dedoplistskaro, with its breathtaking views of the Greater Caucasus range, is an ideal base for our 2-night stay. Exploring the surrounding steppes and riverine forest bordering the Lori River, we hope to encounter Eastern Imperial Eagle, Black Francolin and even Common Pheasant, a native bird in this region, as well as colonies of Roller, Lesser Kestrel and Bee-eater.

From Dedoplistskaro, we will drive through the vast agricultural plains of Shiraki to Vashlovani National Park. The plains provide an important stopover for migrant Demoiselle Cranes and Pallid Harriers, as well as excellent habitat for resident Saker. Vashlovani National Park is a wonderfully wild area stretching all the way to the Azeri border. The park is notable for its unique badland-like landscapes of desert, semi-desert steppe vegetation and deciduous forests, which support a wide range of birds, mammals and plants. Although rarely seen, mammal species include Wolf, Eurasian Lynx, Persian Gazelle, Indian Porcupine and even Caucasian Leopard. From an avian perspective we are likely to encounter a range of steppe species, as well as good numbers of Black and Griffon Vultures.

After visiting Vashlovani National Park, we return once more to Tbilisi. Here we will enjoy an excellent farewell dinner, reflecting on our many happy memories of this fascinating country and its spectacular birdlife, before returning to the airport for our flight home.