Greece - Lake Kerkini in Spring

Lake Kerkini sits within a natural ‘bowl’ between the Kerkini Mountains to the north and the Mavrovouni Mountains to the south. It lies in northern Greece, close to the Bulgarian border, and is renowned as one of the finest wetland sites in all of Europe. Historically, the wild marshlands along the Strymon River floodplain were regarded as virtually uninhabitable and therefore abandoned to nature. In the early 20th century, however, a sustained effort over many years converted thousands of hectares of marsh into arable land, a process assisted by the creation of a huge irrigation reservoir which — together with a network of canals and ditches — helped to control the flow of water. Even so, over the next half century the Strymon River was reluctant to relinquish its influence on the landscape, gradually filling the new reservoir with sediment washed down from the mountains and forcing the construction of a new, taller, dam in 1982. This succeeded in raising water levels and created the present-day outline of Lake Kerkini.

Our single-centre tour begins with a direct flight from London to Thessaloniki, followed by a 2-hour drive to a pleasant lakeside guesthouse. Here we will be based for seven nights, enabling us to have that rare luxury on a birdwatching tour of being able to unpack suitcases and settle into our rooms! From here we get our first views of the lake shimmering in the spring sunshine and, over the following week, we will be able to explore every facet of this Ramsar-acknowledged wetland paradise. Skirting the popular areas set aside for public recreation, we will be seeking the quieter corners of the reserve where Little Bitterns, Purple Herons, Squacco Herons and many other waterbirds enjoy the sanctuary of the lake’s extensive reedbeds from which the guttural rasping of Great Reed Warblers competes with a chorus of frogs. Hundreds of Great Crested Grebes nest around the margins of the lake, whilst in open water the branches of drowned trees still reach above the surface creating perches and nesting platforms for a noisy congregation of herons, cormorants and Spoonbills which we will view from boats.

Two of Kerkini’s most distinguished residents are the endangered Dalmatian Pelican and Pygmy Cormorant, both of which breed here and thrive on the lake’s abundant supply of fish. As ‘stars of the show’ the former always demand particular attention, whether soaring on thermals or excitedly chasing a shoal of fish through the water, often joined in their hunt by rafts of White Pelicans and Cormorants. As we move deeper into the countryside surrounding the lake we will be captivated by the sights and sounds of a Mediterranean spring. Bee-eaters swoop after insects over the fields, Golden Orioles utter their fluty calls from roadside trees and Hoopoes flash their pied wings as they dash away. Of equal interest to the more showy species are the more sober-plumaged summer visitors, including warblers such as Subalpine, Barred, Marsh, Cetti’s, Olivaceous and Olive-tree, the latter something of a speciality of northern Greece, often heard but much harder to see! Red-backed, Lesser Grey, Woodchat and delicate Masked Shrikes wreak havoc among the insect population and often adorn the telephone wires, sharing these prominent perches with Black-headed, Cirl and Corn Buntings. As we explore further afield we should find Lesser Spotted Eagles soaring over woodlands; and Black Storks, Penduline Tits, Black-eared Wheatears and perhaps some less predictable migrants pausing in this food-rich haven before continuing on their journey. Our excursions will also take us into the nearby mountains where raptors include Golden, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, along with one or two pairs of White-tailed Eagles which find easy prey in the lake below. Rock Nuthatches are another of the hillside residents, whilst other species found at the higher elevations, or on the forested slopes, include Rock Partridge, Black Woodpecker, Nutcracker, Ortolan Bunting and both Rock and Blue Rock Thrushes.

Not all of Lake Kerkini’s attractions are ornithological, however. Herds of semi-feral Water Buffaloes forage through the shallows, creating scenes more reminiscent of Asia than Europe, whilst local reptiles enjoying the sunshine include Hermann’s Tortoise and both Green and Balkan Green Lizards. Over 100 species of butterfly have been recorded in the countryside around the lake, and mammals inhabiting the montane forest slopes include Beech Marten and Wildcat, although both are elusive and rarely seen. Add to this wonderful variety a stunning flora, excellent accommodation and Kerkini’s ease of access from the UK, and it is not difficult to appreciate why this picturesque lake is destined to become a firm favourite of Naturetrek’s over the coming years.