Learning Spanish in Wild Spain! - La Montana Palentina

There still remain corners of rural Spain, far from the reality of this fast-developing and increasingly urban-dwelling country, that have been forgotten by time, largely abandoned by all but the older generation, and which are being reclaimed by a wildlife no longer so persecuted by man. The Montaña Palentina — the Palentian Mountains — is one such place: a wild, unpopulated region of high and chilly ridges, rounded summits, sweeping valleys and magnificent panoramic vistas extending southwards to the great plains of Castile and Leon. Nestling in the shadow of northern Spain’s Cordillera Cantabrica, not far from the jagged limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa, the Palentian Mountains are dominated by the majestic Sierra de Pena Labra, essentially a high mountain ridge boasting a handful of 2,000-metre summits. The ancient Palentian villages of the region are largely deserted, with hardly an occupied house in each. For this reason, so too are the Palentian Mountains left for reclamation by Wolves, Brown Bears, Wild Boar, and numerous Chamois, Red Deer and Roe Deer, not to mention a host of smaller mammals such as Iberian and Brown Hare, Beech Marten, Pine Marten, Wildcat and the elusive Genet.

We will be based in a comfortable hotel in Aguilar de Campoo, an historic town known for its medieval castle and biscuit-making industry, during this week-long Spanish-speaking exploration of this little-known mountain wildlife haven. Our local guide Tino speaks almost no English, but his clear Spanish and extrovert and bubbly personality make him the perfect travelling companion. Leading the tour with Tino will be our own Byron Palacios. Byron became known to Naturetrek through his expert leadership of our birding groups in his native Ecuador. Now settled in Dorset, Byron has a great rapport with Tino and this promises to be, above all, a fun week of wildlife, food and wine that provides the perfect environment in which to practise and improve your spoken Spanish (although Byron will use English with you when stuck!).

Aguilar lies on the doorstep of a truly wild landscape, comprising high mountain ridges rich in alpine flora, jagged crags and cliffs, and vast oak and Beech forests which support a high percentage of the endangered eastern population of the European Brown Bear. Much maligned, these magnificent creatures are notoriously difficult to see, roaming elusively over vast tracts of difficult terrain. Nevertheless, we do stand a chance of a sighting if we put in the effort at dawn and dusk, when the Bears are most active. We will be made to feel very much at home by Tino, who will share a rich passion for, and knowledge of, these mountains ... as well as regaling us with tales and photographs of his close encounters with both Bears and Wolves. Tino is an expert in finding and interpreting animal tracks and signs left by Brown Bear, Fox, Wolf, Beech Marten, Badger, Wild Boar and deer, and will give us a masterclass in tree identification. We’ll also learn about the medicinal, culinary and other uses the various plants and fungi that we shall see are put to.

Tino's local knowledge is very much central to our daily outings, with the majority of each day spent on foot in quiet locations accessed by vehicle. A range of habitats can be found in close proximity, with a full suite of raptors present, including resident Golden Eagle and Peregrine, and both Griffon and Egyptian Vultures. Middle Spotted Woodpeckers breed here and are easier to see in this location than throughout much of the rest of their range. Another highlight is the Wallcreeper which, although usually elusive when at high altitudes during this season, drops to the dam walls of the region’s reservoirs at the onset of colder weather, and from then on can be seen quite easily.

On one day we will drive further afield to explore the steppes and plains of the meseta, home to Great Bustard, Stone Curlew and other grassland birds, and a large (depending on rainfall) reed-fringed lake which supports good numbers of ducks, geese, waders and such interesting passerines as Penduline Tit and Moustached Warbler. Completing the picture in these wonderful mountains are the stone carvings of ancient Romanesque churches, the old rock hermitage of San Vicente, interesting old dovecotes and dwellings at Guaza de Campos and the historical centre of Aguilar de Campoo. There really is something here for everyone.

Flexibility will be the key to this tour and, whatever time we arrive back at our base, we can be sure that a hearty meal will be waiting for us on our return each day from the wilds of this forgotten corner of Europe. It will be hard to leave!