The Strait of Gibraltar: Whales, Dolphins & Autumn Migration

The Strait of Gibraltar has always been of great strategic importance, sitting as it does at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. This narrow, 14-kilometre-wide, stretch of water is not only held in high regard in the geopolitical world, it is of an equal importance to the natural world too, especially to the region's birds and cetaceans. Each year millions of migrating birds use the Strait to cross between Africa and Europe on their biannual migration between their wintering and breeding grounds. It is an especially important crossing point for raptors, storks and other soaring birds which prefer to avoid traversing long stretches of open water where there are no thermals or updrafts to keep them aloft. In the autumn, the rugged coastline on the Spanish side of the Strait between Gibraltar and Tarifa offers these long-distance travellers the opportunity to gain a final bit of height before setting out on the short, but nevertheless perilous, sea crossing to Africa.

This tour has been timed to coincide with the peak of the autumn migration at the southernmost tip of the European continent and offers a 5-day exploration of the Strait and Spain's Cadiz Province. We will be based for four nights in a comfortable cortijo (traditional Spanish farmhouse) just outside the small town of Vejer de la Frontera, an ideal place from which to enjoy the region's autumn birdlife and witness the raptors passing overhead. Our itinerary will be flexible —  subject to the predicted weather for each day —  which is crucial if we are to catch both the peak movements of birds and ensure good sea conditions for our boat trip.

Weather permitting, we will travel out into the Strait from the town of Tarifa to look for cetaceans. Three species of dolphin — Common, Bottlenose and Striped — are resident here, and are often particularly abundant in September. There are also several resident groups of Long-finned Pilot Whales in the area, which are typically extremely obliging and unconcerned by the approach of the small motor-vessel we will be using. In addition, other larger species such as Fin Whale, Sperm Whale and Orca occur in the area and we are likely to see such seabirds as Cory’s, Scopoli´s and Balearic Shearwaters and Wilson´s Storm-petrel, as well as other marine wildlife, perhaps including Ocean Sunfish and sharks. Our boat trips will be two to three hours in duration.

There are a number of migration watch-points in the nearby hills which double as handy picnic sites. During September the skies are usually dominated by soaring birds. Movements can include up to 18 species of raptors —  especially Booted and Short-toed Eagles and Black Kites — together with White, and the occasional Black Storks. The views from the hills can be quite superb as raptors wheel around our heads.

 There are several different wetland habitats within an easy drive of our accommodation, where we may find passage waders, terns and gulls. The saltpans at nearby Barbate are an especially productive site and usually packed with interest at this time of year. They attract large numbers of breeding and migrating waders such as Kentish Plover, Black-winged Stilt, Curlew Sandpiper, Spotted Redshank and Little Stint. Gulls and terns can include such treats as Slender-billed and Audouin's Gulls and Caspian Tern.

We will also be on the lookout for one of the region's rarest residents, the quirky and endearing Northern Bald Ibis. This critically endangered bird is doing well here — thanks to a successful reintroduction programme — and we may even be fortunate to see them on one of their regular evening visits to the grounds of our hotel!

The beauty of this area in the autumn is that anything can and does happen. A pod of Orcas pops in to check out the local tuna boats, a night of inclement weather has migrants bursting out of every bush, a sky that was empty one day is filled with eagles the next. Whatever happens, we will not be far away when it does!