The Gambia in Style at Christmas

Affectionately known as the ‘Smiling Coast of West Africa’, the Republic of The Gambia is a tiny country that packs a mighty avian punch, being home to more than 570 species. For the birder, it offers an exciting kaleidoscope of colour and variety, plus just a touch of familiarity for those of us travelling from the UK! Along with plenty of photographic opportunities (we also offer a special ‘Photography’ departure each year) and examples of fascinating African culture in the rural heart of West Africa, The Gambia boasts a friendly, easy-going atmosphere and an appealing combination of superlative birdwatching and a warm sunny climate, making it the perfect winter sun getaway.

We depart on a direct flight from London Gatwick to Banjul, and from here it is just a short transfer of around 45 minutes to the exclusive Mandina Lodges. This is our home for the week and it feels a world away from the bustle of Banjul and the touristic Atlantic coast, being set within 1,000 acres of the peaceful Makasutu Cultural Forest and bordering the secluded mangrove-lined tributary of the River Gambia. There are just nine striking chalets at Mandina, with some discreetly positioned over the water and others set back within the lush forest wilderness. The large pool is perfect for cooling off during the heat of the day and meals are served al fresco in the thatched dining areas. The entire setting has been thoughtfully and beautifully designed to promote a tranquil retreat from everyday life, and around the lodge guests frequently encounter such avian delights as African Golden Oriole, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Bearded Barbet, White-throated and Little Bee-eaters, Pied and Blue-breasted Kingfishers, Green-headed, Scarlet-chested and Beautiful Sunbirds, Northern Crombec and Violet Turaco. Sitting in the bar overlooking the mangroves at sunset whilst watching the herons and egrets return to their roost, it is easy to see why this place has been selected as one of the ‘1001 escapes to make before you die’!

On four days, during our stay at Mandina Lodges, we remain based at the lodge and explore the nearby forest, rice fields, mud flats and surrounding savannah both on foot and using traditional dugout canoes. We will set off from the lodge just as it is getting light and, as the sun warms us up, it can sometimes be hard to know where to look as parrots, turacos, rollers, bush-shrikes, sunbirds, glossy starlings and bee-eaters all vie for our attention! Raptors commonly seen overhead include Black Kite, Palm-nut Vulture, African Harrier-hawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk and Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle, whilst Guinea Baboons are resident in the forest and are very approachable, and Green Vervet Monkeys are also commonly seen. Boat trips along the creek are sure to reveal a diverse selection of herons, egrets and other waterbirds, plus a dazzling selection of kingfishers. We will return to Mandina for a leisurely brunch and then, during the heat of the day, we will be free to relax, enjoy a dip in the lodge’s beautiful swimming pool, explore the mangroves or perhaps go for an independent walk in the nearby forest. Meeting up again in the late afternoon once the air has started to cool, we will enjoy a second excursion and return to Mandina in time for a drink and dinner.

On one evening during our stay we will also enjoy a special sunset cruise through the mangroves and out onto the River Gambia proper, which extends as far as the eye can see. We will take our time to scan the mangroves, looking out for species such as Goliath Heron, Pink-backed Pelican, Long-tailed Cormorants, as well as numerous egrets and darters, and perhaps African Finfoot.

On two days we will enjoy full day excursions away from Makasutu in order to explore some of the area’s other top nature reserves. None are further than about an hour’s drive away, and we are sure to include Kartong wetlands on the coast, close to the border with Senegal, which host a whole array of species including various species of Sandpiper, Hamerkop, Black Crake, Jacana and African Spoonbill in the various pools, and if eagle-eyed we might see African Crocodile basking in the sun on a bank. The surrounding scrubland is no less fruitful, with Blue-bellied and Abyssinian Rollers likely, Woodland and Grey-headed Kingfisher perched, and with Palm and Mosque Swifts screeching overheard as well as various raptors soaring over, it is sometimes difficult to know where to look. Another location is a disused shrimp farm in Pirang which nature has reclaimed and is a very productive spot, and nearby is a section of gallery forest which is a particularly good location for roosting owls including Verreaux’s Eagle Owl as well as Long-tailed Nightjar if lucky.

Finally, after a week of easy, yet exciting and varied birding from an extremely comfortable base, we must drag ourselves away and return to Banjul for our flight home.