Zambia's South Luangwa National Park - Nkonzi Camp

This 10-day safari will take us into the very heart of Zambia's South Luangwa National Park, one of Africa's last remaining wilderness areas. The beauty of this holiday is that we are based deep within the reserve, in an area less visited by other tourists. We will stay for seven nights in Nkonzi Bush Camp, where our only neighbours are wild ones. The animals hold sway here. If the track is blocked by Elephants, you wait. If a pride of Lions wishes to wander through camp at night, they do. You can hear everything from your tent, from the distant neighing of a herd of Crawshay's Zebras or the grunting of a pod of Hippos, to the daytime dirges of doves and barbets - it is a magical place!

Nkonzi Bush Camp is set up each year between June and November and it takes a maximum of only 10 guests in five spacious twin-bedded tents. Each tent is equipped with comfortable beds and a private bush bathroom with a shower and 'proper' flushing toilet. Although not luxury, Nkonzi Camp offers an appealing mix of comfort with an immersive wilderness camping experience. The camp is set up next to the seasonal Mushilashi River and is surrounded by pristine mopane woodland and grassy plains dotted with large 'Sausage Trees'. Meals are either taken under the shade of trees or, sometimes, after dark, in the dried-up riverbed under the myriad stars of the Milky Way!

The South Luangwa National Park is the jewel in Zambia's national park crown. Bordered by the Luangwa River on its eastern side and the Muchinga Escarpment to the west, the park protects over 9,000 square kilometres of wilderness and is home to an exceptional abundance of mammals, birds and other wildlife. These include many of Africa's iconic mammals, such as Elephants, Thornicroft's Giraffes, Hippos, Warthogs, Crawshay's Zebras and African Buffalo, plus Bushbuck, Puku, Greater Kudu, Lichtenstein's Hartebeest and the super-abundant Impala.

This abundance of game is stalked by Lions, Leopards and packs of African Wild Dogs. The Luangwa Valley has one of the highest densities of Leopards in the world and our search for this elusive feline will be aided by the fact that, unlike in many of Africa's wildlife reserves, night drives are permitted. Our afternoon safaris (in open vehicles) end with a bush sundowner before we make our way back to camp under the cover of darkness, using spotlights to find the animals by their eyeshine. Among the many possibilities are Southern Lesser Galago, Scrub Hare, African Civet, Honey Badger, White-tailed, Bushy-tailed and Slender Mongooses and Large-spotted Genet. We are likely to find a few night birds too, with Pennant-winged Nightjar a very special possibility!

Although we usually join a game drive in the afternoon, the morning activity can be a drive or a walk. The concept of the walking safari originated in the South Luangwa, pioneered by the late conservationist Norman Carr in the 1950s. There is nothing quite like being out in the African bush on foot, being able to enjoy the 'small stuff' as well as the showier mammals and birds. You might even find yourself looking at Lions looking at you... although always at a safe distance of course! Being out on foot will also enable us to study the tracks and scats, the botany and the insects, and look for some of the more elusive birds.

While most famous for its mammals, the Luangwa Valley is a wonderful place for birds too. First-time travellers to southern Africa may be overwhelmed by the sheer variety — and colours — of the species on offer. The sounds of the bush will be unfamiliar and exotic too, although we will soon get used to the chatter of White-browed Sparrow-weavers, the shrill cry of the African Fish Eagle and the soft cooing of myriad Cape Turtle Doves. Some of the reserve's other avian highlights include Marabou Stork, Greater Honeyguide, Tawny, Wahlberg's and Martial Eagles, Purple-crested Turaco, Lilian's Lovebird, White-fronted Bee-eater, parties of prehistoric-looking Southern Ground Hornbills and the dazzling colonies of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters that line the riverbanks!

To reach Nkonzi Camp, we fly to the Zambian capital of Lusaka, usually via Dubai, from where we hop by air to Mfuwe, the gateway to the South Luangwa National Park. It is then a 45-minute to 1-hour drive to camp, where we will be based for seven nights. Those wishing to extend their holiday might like to consider spending time admiring the Victoria Falls or perhaps crossing into neighbouring Malawi.