Spain's 'Big Three': In Search of Whales, Wolves & Bears

Northern Spain, rugged and green, has a great deal to offer the naturalist. Here, in the Cantabrian Mountains, which extend for about 180 miles from the Pyrenees to Galicia, two isolated populations of European Brown Bear occur. The majority, about 100, live in the wildest, steepest and most wooded parts of the little-visited western end of the range. Of these, about 20 live in the deep valleys, forests and mountains of Somiedo Natural Park, one of Naturetrek’s favourite European retreats, and very little known. Established in 1988, Somiedo protects almost 30,000 hectares of some of the highest and most scenic peaks and valleys of the region, and is regarded as the best-preserved montane environment in the Iberian Peninsula. The Cantabrian Mountains and their outlying ranges also hold the vast majority of Spain’s 2,500 to 3,000 Wolves and are the stronghold of the species in Europe. This is a population that has increased markedly since an estimated all-time low of just 500 individuals in 1970. The depopulation of Spain’s rural regions, as Spaniards have increasingly migrated to the cities, has benefitted both the Wolf and the Bear, as has a changing attitude towards these two species which were once viciously persecuted.

Our holiday begins with a ferry crossing from the south coast to Santander over the Bay of Biscay, a journey which at this time of year regularly produces sightings of an exciting range of whale and dolphin species. The ferry provides a good vantage-point for scanning the sea ahead for tell-tale fins or ‘blows’. Our ship crosses the continental shelf during the night and the morning will find us in the Bay of Biscay, over a deep underwater topography that creates a particularly rich feeding ground for whales. Here we have a chance of encountering such exciting species as Fin, Sei, Minke and Longfinned Pilot Whales, plus the deep-diving Cuvier’s Beaked Whale and a variety of dolphins including Bottlenose, Common, Striped and Risso’s. In September it is also sometimes possible to see migrating Sperm Whales; at this time of year we also have a good chance of seeing Balearic, Sooty and Cory’s Shearwaters, up to four species of skua, Sabine’s Gull, Grey Phalarope and petrels that may even include Wilson’s.

On reaching northern Spain and overnighting in Santander, we will drive south to the rolling hills of Zamora, where we will spend four nights. Now our focus switches to finding one of these mountains’ iconic mammals, the Wolf. This is a region of rolling hills and broad valleys which affords excellent opportunities to scan wide areas of open land and which may easily be accessed via an extensive network of metalled roads and gravelled forest tracks. Birds of prey are much in evidence and include Red Kite, Hen Harrier, Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Merlin and even the occasional Golden Eagle. Coniferous forests are filled with Firecrests, Coal and Crested Tits, and Jays, while the heaths hold Woodlark, Stonechat and Dartford Warbler. Good numbers of both Red and Roe Deer are here too — good news for us, as they form the main prey for the focus of our visit, the Wolf. Looking for Wolves involves lengthy scanning sessions from strategic vantage-points and requires a great deal of persistence, patience and stealth. Having said that, 90% of our Wolf-watching tours in this area to date have been successful, so we will be hoping to maintain this record.

From Zamora we will drive north to the village of Pola de Somiedo, situated within Somiedo Natural Park, where we will be based for the next three nights. During September, Brown Bears will be feeding on the seasonal glut of fruits, nuts and other food sources in order to fatten up for their long winter hibernation. To stand a chance of seeing a Bear we must put in long hours of patient scanning from one spot during the early mornings and late evenings. A successful Bear quest will also require a hefty dose of luck, not least with the weather! There are Chamois, plus Roe and Red Deer in the park and we will also enjoy the other wildlife we see from our vantage-points, and during gentlepaced wildlife walks, as well as during our leisurely and lavish al fresco lunches set amongst the beautiful Cantabrian scenery.

Before long it will be time to drive to Santander to enjoy some more cetacean and seabird-watching on the ferry home to Plymouth, from where we offer a transfer back to our port of departure.